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Devil's Thumb Southeast Chimney T 
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Devil's Thumb Southeast Chimney 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: G.Parker
Season: Winter
Page Views: 787
Submitted By: marcin ksok on Apr 23, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Topo - SE Chimney and Rap

Description 

Interesting old school route worth doing for those who are into chimneys.
P1. Nice hand crack(crux) with an old rope slung around a boulder dangling over it to a dirty ledge.Left and into the deep chimney to a dirty ledge.
P2. Right up the short easy off with/face to the top.

Location 

Obvious thumb shaped short spire up and left of the Planetarium. Park at the Mystic trailhead as for the Planetarium. Once on the trail instead of following the climber's path to planetarium keep going until reaching a drainage on the right with a 2 pipe bridge under the trail and some cairns in the drainage. Follow it as far as you can up towards the limestone band, after scrambling up a section of slickrock brake left and up faint path over taulus to a brake in the limestone band. Scramble through, traverse slope until under the feature, scramble again to a notch right of the feature you will now see the dangling rope.

Protection 

Small to large cams. Off width gear not necessary. Bolt anchor on top. Single 70 m rap


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By Dave Spies
From: Sedona, AZ
Nov 13, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A single rack of cams .3-3 should get you to the top in one pitch, but watch drag. Single 60m rope will get you down. Rap is two bolts with webbing. Bring some web for the anchor since it sits in the sun all day (or donate some nice chains if you feel generous).