Type: Trad, Alpine, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,874 total · 30/month
Shared By: flynn on Nov 1, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

The climb: rope up at the saddle beneath the looming north aspect of the Thumb. Head up past an old pin, left up a ramp, around the corner onto more easy climbing with amazing exposure. Belay on any of several classic ledges. You're on the east side now. Continue the up-and-left-and-up routine across the east face, then step left (onto the south face) onto a ledge with astounding exposure! This will redline your Wow-Meter! Ease up buckets to the mind-boggling summit, complete with register and funky ol' rappel slings a few feet down to the north. This is a great spot for scenic picnics, as you have a 360-degree view.

The descent: One 60-meter rope puts you back in the saddle where you began; a 50-meter would leave you with some class 4 downclimbing. We beefed up the rappel slings a year ago. Keep your head on until you've reversed the approach ridge.

Protection Suggest change

A skeleton rack of finger to fist size stuff should be fine; no brass and no heavy metal are necessary. Long slings are vital; don't even bother with sport-type draws. A camera is absolutely mandatory. Bring along some excuse to linger on the summit.

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