Devil's Punchbowl Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: This hand inked guide I made in 1990 by tracing ph...
The Devils Punchbowl is the hidden gem of Los Angeles County. Nestled into the northern foothills of the San Gabriel mountain range, this county park is blessed with white sandstone strata, pushed skyward by the geologic activity of the San Andreas Fault and other nearby fault lines. These soft slabs are beautiful to see and great to climb. While many do not care for slab climbing, or feel uncomfortable on sandstone, the climbing here presents a variety of style in a beautiful setting where the high desert meets the mountains. Although not a replacement for the sport climbing of the now closed Williamson area, anyone looking for a change from the routine, or needing to work on their slab technique, should give DPB a try. And soft sandstone is very easy on the fingertips! Just remember to always pull down on flakes, never outward. ;-)
The park is open from sunrise to sunset and there are no fees associated. This is a very popular spot for day hikers and nature classes. The County of Los Angeles Parks and Recreation department offers many guided hikes and other activities for visitors. Please go to devils-punchbowl.com
for more information. Be sure also to check out the live snake collection in the welcome center and say hello to Ruth
Some years ago there was a move to ban climbing in the Punch Bowl. Luckily, cooler heads prevailed. But for the purpose of keeping this wonderful area open to climbing, please be very respectful of the area, obey park rules, use only proper trails, pack out everything that you bring in, and note that no new route development is allowed, and no bolting. If you find bolts in need of replacement, please contact the ASCA, and they can work with the Parks and Rec department of Los Angeles County on our behalf. Amenities:
There are several small markets in Pearblossom for basic supplies, near and on the corner of CA-138 and Longview. There are a couple restaurants nearby these markets, as well as a wider selection in the towns of Little Rock and Palmdale, not far to the west, along the CA-138. Camping:
There are two campgrounds nearby with sites for tents as well as RVs. Both have toilets and fire pits, one has running water. Both require an Adventure Pass and according to the first link (scroll down to find the campgrounds, listed in alphabetical order), both are free. But according to the second link, South Fork charges $8/night. Sycamore Flat Campground South Fork Campground
From the I-15: take the Palmdale/Silverwood Lake exit and drive west on CA-138, (or west on CA-18 if coming from the north the CA-18 will eventually merge with the CA-138), 30.1 miles to the town of Pearblossom.
From the I-5: take the Palmdale/Lancaster exit and drive north on the CA-14 for 29.7 miles. Take exit #30 (Angeles Forest Hwy/Pearblossom Hwy) and drive 0.3 miles to Sierra Hwy. Turn left on Sierra Hwy and drive 1.2 miles to Pearblossom Hwy. Turn right and continue east for 13.2 miles to the town of Pearblossom.
From Pearblossom: turn south on Longview Rd. At the T intersection (2.2 mi) turn left onto Ft. Tejon Rd. After 0.3 miles, turn right onto Longview Rd. Continue 2.3 miles and turn left onto Tumbleweed Rd. (which turns into Devils Punchbowl Rd.) Drive 2.9 miles to the end of the road/parking lot. 28000 Devil's Punchbowl Rd., Pearblossom Ca. 93553
Weather station 2.5 miles from here
56 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',29],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Devil's Punchbowl
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Devil's Punchbowl
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Devil's Punchbowl:
Featured Route For Devil's Punchbowl
Lesson Learned 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
: High Desert
: ... : Big Wall City
The crux is passing the third bolt reaching for a two finger pocket high up and over on the right. Make sure you clean this pocket when you rap in. When you rap in you're commited. The only way out is to climb the route. Super fun safe route with nice jugs and lie back....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
By Jeff constine
May 18, 2013
Who ever replaced the second bolt on Followers Folly 5.9, why did you just leave the old bolt? WHY DID YOU TRY, and smash it into the rock with the nut still on it.. Looks like total Noob work. Bad paint job to, it all flaked off.
If you don't know how to pull the old bolts W/out damaging the rock. You have no business Bolting at the punchbowl Period!!!! Stop scaring the rock.. The Ranger is going to get upset..
By Jeff constine
Jul 28, 2013
Hey MaryK, I do Fund all rebolting at the Punchbowl, and other places. outta my pocket, thanks, your comment, seams like you're Ignorant.
By Ally McBeal
Aug 17, 2013
Jeff C, it seems (not seams) this is a case of the kettle calling the pot black. It is often said that it is better to be thought of as ignorant than to open your mouth and remove all doubt. You have removed all doubt about your ignorance. Time to call the ASCA.
From: Sherman Oaks, California
Oct 27, 2014
I just climbed at the Punchbowl for the first time, on Very Direct Wall. Most of the bolts are extremely old, and rusted, so I appreciate any new bolt that is put up by Jeff C. He has a lot of experience bolting routes, and has established many first ascents. He may not be the most diplomatic when it comes to posting in forums, but out on the rock, he is anything but ignorant.
As rock climbers, we are all responsible for protecting the rock. It is important for maintaining the beauty of the places we climb, the integrity of the routes, as well as the security of our sport. No one wants a crag to be shut down due to mistreatment. So, It's important to be careful and know what you're doing if you're placing a bolt. It not only scars the rock, but climbers trust that bolt with their lives.
While climbing "Upper Bolt Route," I saw an old, 1/4 bolt, with half a nut rusted onto a dilapidated hanger, and said to myself, "what the hell am I doing here?" I was not falling. That's what I was doing there. Many of the anchors on this wall are rusted, and some chain anchors are linked with a single wrap ring, which isn't redundant. On the whole, I think this place could use a major overhaul.
By Ethan Bridwell 1
From: littlerock CA
Apr 20, 2015
who ever re-bolted that 2 pitch 5.10ish sport climb on the right of vd wall made the hangars look crazy cool fun climb on brand new bolts