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Devil's Pinkie (AKA South Pinnacle)

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South Pinnacle T 

Devil's Pinkie (AKA South Pinnacle) Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 7,000'
Location: 39.96842, -105.29048 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 724
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tony B on May 20, 2014  with updates from Evan Koeber


52° | 38°

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51° | 39°

56° | 41°

64° | 45°
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Devil's Pinkie on a blue background sticking out o...

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  • Description 

    This has a small scramble to a very exposed summit with views North over Bear Canyon and West to the peaks. The approach to climb-time ratio is a little crazy, but it is an excellent little summit.

    This peak is best done in warmer drier seasons, as the approach and descent are rocky and rough - in snow or with much moisture this could be unpleasant. Once there, you are almost sure to be alone, which is good considering that the summit could not fit more than one person at a time.

    Getting There 

    The approach takes about 55 minutes. Go from the Devil's Thumb neighborhood on Bear Mountain Rd. up to the Bear Canyon Trail. The entire time the Devil's Pinkie will jut out of the ground on the horizon, making finding it fairly easy. At first, from the East it appears as a square, leaning tower, but as you approach it from the North and below, it appears like more of a twisted thorn of rock hanging overhead.

    Continue on the Bear Canyon Trail past Overhanging Rock to a point below the next Ridge to the West. This is Sherwood Forest and the Gnome Wall, home of a few bolted routes and obscure trad lines... approach via chasing this ridge steeply up and Southwest to reach the Pinkie. Get to the South side of the Pinkie to find the climbing route there.

    Per Evan Koeber: this area lies within the Bear Canyon Habitat Conservation Area and requires a permit to climb:

    Climbing Season

    For the South area.

    Weather station 2.5 miles from here

    1 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

    Featured Route For Devil's Pinkie (AKA South Pinnacle)
    Rock Climbing Photo: The Devil's Pinkie from the North.

    South Pinnacle Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c  Colorado : Flatirons : ... : Devil's Pinkie (AKA South P...
    This is a good route as a scramble, mostly due to its position and views. This is more of a hike than anything, but the final 30' are very cool and climb out and over onto a spire tip hanging several hundred feet above the canyon's floor....[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

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