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Devil's Nose

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Devil's Nose Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 1,119'
Location: 39.60818, -78.11323 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,577
Administrators: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Lex Rodgers on Jul 24, 2016
Forecast:
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58°
Saturday

84° | 62°
Sunday

87° | 65°
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87° | 64°
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84° | 63°
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83° | 62°
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BETA PHOTO: Option 1 approach is to park at area 1, follow the...

Description 

Devil's Nose is a part of the Sleepy Creek WMA, which is nearly 23,000 acres of pine and oak dense wilderness, located between Morgan and Berkeley Counties. The main trail through this area is the blue-blazed Tuscarora Trail (TT). The Potomac Appalachian Trail Club constructed and maintains the TT along with most of the trails throughout the WMA. The climbing areas here are not well developed, and seem to be climbed by only a handful of people. There is potential for several cliff lines to become easily top-rope accessible crags featuring exposed routes overlooking the Ridge-and-Valley Appalachian Mountains.

The whole area provides a lot of opportunity for exploring and adventure climbing if you're willing to search around. If you find or know of areas not yet included, please feel free to add them!

Other activities include fishing, camping, geocaching, mountain biking, and swimming. There are 75 rustic campsites provided by the WMA. Sleepy Creek offers a 205 acre lake equipped with a boat launch.

For more information on Sleepy Creek WMA, visit sleepycreek.wordpress.com or purchase Map L from the PATC website.

Getting There 

Devil's Nose parking area is about 30 minutes from Martinsburg, WV. The parking area is located at the end of Maverick Road in the Sleepy Hollow subdivision. To reach the parking area, follow Rt. 9 West through Hedgesville, WV. Turn left on Mountain Lake Road, then turn right onto Audubon Road through the Sleepy Hollow subdivision. Turn right onto Maverick road, and follow it until you see the obvious parking area at the end. There is a PATC sign designating the parking area and Devil's Nose Connector Trail. The trail head is at the gate.
There are two main ways to get to the climbing areas.
1) The recommended and safest way: Hike the white-blazed, Devil's Nose Connector trail for approximately half a mile. Turn right onto the blue-blazed Tuscarora Trail. Follow the TT to the Meadow Branch Stream and cross the PATC constructed bridge. Ascend the trail to the Devil's Nose overlook. The hike is moderate- about 1.5-2 miles of rocky, but well maintained trail. The approach is about 45 minutes.
2) The short cut which may only be passable in early spring or fall: Hike down the jeep trail from the parking area like in the first way, but about 1/4 to 1/3 of a mile down the trail youll see a very large camping/turn around spot. About 100 yards down trail from the camping area is tree with a heart and peoples initials engraved in it. Turn right, down hill and off trail. Follow the old rocky stream bed until it meets a cascading little waterfall of the small stream. Cross the stream and follow the trail through rhododendrons and under a couple of small chossy overhangs. Look for a large tree bridge laying across the meadow branch and cross it however you can. If the rivers low, you could just wade across. The tree bridge puts you right at the base of the west side of Devils Nose. Scramble up to set up top rope and/or follow the trail right to the grand corridor for more climbing. PS: If you dont cross over the cascading waterfall you can continue following the stream bed trail until you get to devils pond which is a neat swimming hole.

Once on top of the main overlook, head right following the obvious trail past the five-foot-wide crevasse which is the grand corridor. On the left side of the boulders just past the crevasse, there are trees to set up top-rope with static line. After you've set up your top-rope, to reach the base, continue on the trail until you come to large boulders. A gap between boulders yields a trail that descends steeply to the left. If you go right instead of left you'll reach the Meadow Branch Stream and Devil's Pond swimming hole on the west side of Devil's Nose.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 6.4 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Devil's Nose
Rock Climbing Photo: Start left of the vertical crack.

Under Surveillance 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  West Virginia : Devil's Nose : South West Area
Start 10ft to the left of the vertical crack. Wander up the fakes using jugs. Don't miss the two finger pocket! The crux may be near the top on somewhat sloppy lichen covered holds....[more]   Browse More Classics in West Virginia

Photos of Devil's Nose Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tree to cross the meadow branch.
BETA PHOTO: Tree to cross the meadow branch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Trail Map, Key: White - main approach, Green - jee...
BETA PHOTO: Trail Map, Key: White - main approach, Green - jee...
Rock Climbing Photo: Fantastic face climbing beneath the main over look...
Fantastic face climbing beneath the main over look...
Rock Climbing Photo: Area Subdivision Map and trails
BETA PHOTO: Area Subdivision Map and trails
Rock Climbing Photo: Beneath the main overlook, North East Area
Beneath the main overlook, North East Area
Rock Climbing Photo: Main face in-between the main overlook and the cor...
Main face in-between the main overlook and the cor...
Rock Climbing Photo: Location: Climbers Left just out side of the Grand...
Location: Climbers Left just out side of the Grand...
Rock Climbing Photo: The South end of the Grand Ccorridor, South West A...
The South end of the Grand Ccorridor, South West A...
Rock Climbing Photo: The main overlook on the left side of Devil's ...
The main overlook on the left side of Devil's ...

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