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Devils Lake vs. Tetons
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Jul 24, 2014
I am heading out to the Tetons next week. It will be my first time in the Tetons and I was wondering if anyone from the Lake with experience in the area could give me some sort of indication of how ratings stack up.

I understand that they are very different types of climbing and there are other factors involved, but just looking for an idea to base a potential tick list... I have heard people say .5 a grade to a grade soft on a pitch my pitch basis (ie. discounting alpine/multi-pitch factors). Is this realistic?
CCas
From Chicago, IL
Joined Feb 19, 2014
75 points
Jul 24, 2014
It's more than realistic. rgold
From Poughkeepsie, NY
Joined Feb 15, 2008
40 points
Jul 24, 2014
I was recently in the tetons but I only had time to climb one route. I think that the ratings were comparable. The rock was different but the 10c felt about the same as 10c routes here. Note that it was at a sport crag (blacktail butte, see tick list), not alpine multipitch.

Have fun! The tetons are awesome!
Justin Meyer
From Madison, WI
Joined May 24, 2012
23 points
Administrator
Jul 24, 2014
I have climbed alpine in the Tetons as well a lot at the lake. I think they are about the same in feel for the grade. 5.9 on the dihedral of horrors for example is longer, but pulling down on the the hard part felt the same as pulling down on Upper D. 5.7 on the direct Petzolt feels about the same as Peters. That being said, you will have a pack on, the altitude will be higher, the rock may be cold ect...ect... jon jugenheimer
From Madison
Joined Apr 24, 2006
1,105 points
Administrator
Jul 24, 2014
I agree (sort of) with Jon. The situation is harder in the Tetons, but I'd add that the climbing itself is easier there. Compare Baxter's Pinnacle to any 5.9 at DL--I'd bet the DL 5.9 is harder. Jay Knower
From Campton, NH
Joined Jul 1, 2001
5,118 points
Administrator
Jul 24, 2014
I don't know about that, that last pitch on Baxter's is quite hard! Or is it 10a...... jon jugenheimer
From Madison
Joined Apr 24, 2006
1,105 points
Administrator
Jul 24, 2014
It's been a long time, but do you think it's harder than Chicago, Upper D, etc? Jay Knower
From Campton, NH
Joined Jul 1, 2001
5,118 points
Jul 24, 2014
Jay Knower wrote:
I agree (sort of) with Jon. The situation is harder in the Tetons, but I'd add that the climbing itself is easier there. Compare Baxter's Pinnacle to any 5.9 at DL--I'd bet the DL 5.9 is harder.


Agree it's alot nicer rock so you seem to climb better on Teton rock. It's the long approach hikes with a load of gear,stumping through snow in early June that makes it harder. Should be nice and melted out by now,,warmer, superb for climbing.
Woodchuck ATC
Joined Nov 29, 2007
505 points
Jul 25, 2014
Thax all, appreciate the feedback. CCas
From Chicago, IL
Joined Feb 19, 2014
75 points
Jul 25, 2014
Woodchuck ATC wrote:
Agree it's alot nicer rock so you seem to climb better on Teton rock. It's the long approach hikes with a load of gear,stumping through snow in early June that makes it harder. Should be nice and melted out by now,,warmer, superb for climbing.


That's crazy talk. There is no nicer rock than Baraboo Quartzite.
Dylan B.
Joined Mar 31, 2006
613 points
Jul 25, 2014
D.Buffum wrote:
That's crazy talk. There is no nicer rock than Baraboo Quartzite.


Texture, friction!! We got NONE at home on quartzite...I remember just being amazed at the way my feet worked FOR me on my first Teton trip!!!!
Woodchuck ATC
Joined Nov 29, 2007
505 points
Administrator
Jul 25, 2014
Jay, I don't really remember, it's been a long time for me as well on that route.

And I agree with Dylan, the Baraboo Qtz is better than 65% of the rock I have been on in the Tetons!
jon jugenheimer
From Madison
Joined Apr 24, 2006
1,105 points
Administrator
Jul 25, 2014
I would sat that DL has the BEST rock for learning how to climb. The slick rock requires precise, laser-focused footwork, which comes in handy in the Tetons, or anywhere else for that matter.

I remember the first time I climbed away from DL. I was at Jackson Falls on Master Marley, and I was like "Dudes, I can stand anywhere!"
Jay Knower
From Campton, NH
Joined Jul 1, 2001
5,118 points
Jul 25, 2014
Friction is for wieners. Dylan B.
Joined Mar 31, 2006
613 points
Jul 27, 2014
I would say the grades are about the same. For me the difference is that out west it seems some routes are a one or two move 5.9, whereas at the lake it would be a lower grade. Birch tree comes to mind. That one move does not feel to me like a 5.7.

I seconded Baxters and the lower pitches are 5.6 and that is about DL normal. The last pitch is a two move 5.9. However, you need to step off a nice ledge into free space with poor feet.

You did not ask, but if you heading out there I recommend joining the Americian apline club and staying at the climbers ranch. It is cheap and there is a lot of neat people at the ranch. Also if you don't know the area hiring a guide can save a day or two trying to find your way around. Excum guiding company is a good group and they can help make sure you start the trip knowing the ins and outs of the area.

Bob
Bobrunning Running
From Madison, wi
Joined Jan 30, 2010
1,800 points


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