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Elevation: 961 ft
GPS: 43.4153, -89.73218
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Jay Knower on Aug 11, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel

Description Suggest change

Overview
Climbing, as we most commonly view it, can be traced back to Devils Lake as early as the 1920’s. However, it wasn’t until decades later when bouldering made its appearance at The Lake. Since then, it has continued to grow within the park. Climbers like John Gill, Eric Zschiesche, and members of the Devils Lake Fukness Association (DLFA) made early contributions to the scene. However, it wasn’t until the mid-2000’s that a group of Madison area locals, many that still frequent the quartzite boulders, began frequenting The Lake that the bouldering potential began to explode.

As climbing continues to grow in popularity, bouldering at Devils Lake is alive more than ever. Now, with arguably over 1,000 recognized problems, the Lake holds a lifetime of bouldering alone. Even more exciting is that new problems are regularly being added to an already seemingly long list.

An awesome short film by Louder Than 11 titled The Good Land - Bouldering At Devils Lake is just one of the many videos out there that give a sense of the amazing bouldering The Lake has to offer.

Guidebooks
  1. Devils Lake Bouldering by Ian Cotter-Brown: A comprehensive guide to bouldering at Devils Lake, including over 900 problems. 
  2. Midwest Bouldering Guidebook by Peter Bonamici (and others): 500+ pages including information on bouldering at The Lake, as well as other popular Wisconsin and Minnesota crags. 
  3. Git On It! By Eric Zscheische:Once the only reference for bouldering at Devils Lake, now a piece a climbing lore that has been reprinted with Eric’s kind permission for all to enjoy.  A slightly different version also appeared as a Rock & Ice mini-guide.
  4. Bouldering On The West Bluff At Devils Lake by Brian Runnells: A mini guide of sorts, this document written by the Climbing Narc himself holds its weight.  

Equipment
The Wisconsin Climbers Association (WCA) rents crash pads out of Madison for $10.00/day to members, or $15.00/day to non-members. For more information, email the WCA at wiscoclimber@gmail.com.

Admission
Devils Lake is part of of the Wisconsin State Park System, requiring the usual admission fees. Daily or annual vehicle stickers can be purchased at various offices or kiosks throughout the park.  

Other
For more information relevant to climbing at Devils Lake State Park, including location/directions, additional guidebooks, accommodations, etc, visit the Devils Lake Climbing page.

Getting There Suggest change

See the directions under each specific area.

An overview of Devils Lake Bouldering Areas

1,594 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Devil's Lake Bouldering Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Devil's Lake Bouldering

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V-easy 3
 98
Trust Fund Slab
Boulder
V0 4
 108
Super Slab
Boulder
V1 5
 116
Classic Warm Up
Boulder
V2 5+
 159
Big Bud Arete
Boulder
V3 6A
 94
Flying Mancuso
Boulder
V3 6A
 108
Slope of Dadaism
Boulder
V4 6B
 133
The Flatiron
Boulder
V4 6B
 62
Sunny & 60's
Boulder
V4 6B
 101
P.Stachio
Boulder
V4 6B
 61
Flux Boulder Classic
Boulder
V4 6B
 116
Baby Crane
Boulder
V6 7A
 56
Amazing Pillar
Boulder
V6 7A
 85
Starfish
Boulder
V6 7A
 61
Jenga
Boulder
V7+ 7A+
 58
What Up Weasel
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Trust Fund Slab W Bluff > W Bluff South > 08. Hogleg/Anchorpoint
 98
V-easy 3 Boulder
Super Slab W Bluff > W Bluff Central > Super Slab Area
 108
V0 4 Boulder
Classic Warm Up Burma Rd
 116
V1 5 Boulder
Big Bud Arete E Bluff > … > 1. N Shore > 3. Big Bud
 159
V2 5+ Boulder
Flying Mancuso S Bluff > 03. The Reserve > Reserve
 94
V3 6A Boulder
Slope of Dadaism E Bluff > … > 6. Monolith Ridge > 1. E of Trail Boulders
 108
V3 6A Boulder
The Flatiron E Bluff > … > 07. E of CCC (G… > 4. Flatiron
 133
V4 6B Boulder
Sunny & 60's E Bluff > … > 2. E Bluff N Talus > Sunny & 60s
 62
V4 6B Boulder
P.Stachio W Bluff > W Bluff Central > Stache (aka Dog Walk)…
 101
V4 6B Boulder
Flux Boulder Classic E Bluff > … > 06. W of CCC Trail > Flux
 61
V4 6B Boulder
Baby Crane Burma Rd
 116
V4 6B Boulder
Amazing Pillar S Bluff > 03. The Reserve > Amazing Pillar
 56
V6 7A Boulder
Starfish S Bluff > 03. The Reserve > Reserve
 85
V6 7A Boulder
Jenga W Bluff > W Bluff Central > Jenga
 61
V6 7A Boulder
What Up Weasel W Bluff > … > W Bluff North,… > 1. Smooth Operator Area
 58
V7+ 7A+ Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Devil's Lake Bouldering »

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