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Devil's Kitchen

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L to R R to L Alpha
1st Corner T 
2nd Corner 
3rd Corner 
Bridal Veil Falls T,TR 
Dream a Little Dream T 
Plattekill Falls 
Purgatory T,S 
Smear TR 
Snotcicle 
Tiers of Joy  T 
Unsorted Routes:

Devil's Kitchen Rock Climbing 


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Page Views: 5,546
Administrators: Jeffrey Dunn, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jeffrey Dunn on Feb 13, 2014
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Description 

The Devil's Kitchen is known for its easy access and proximity to the road. Climbers will find excellent moderate to difficult ice lines and mixed climbing routes. The Kitchen is only one of several closely situated ice/rock bands, but generally they are separate areas that are best accessed via a different approaches. As you descend past the Kitchen, you will find Bridalveil Falls on the right side, above which is Plattekill Falls and further down the ravine is Japanese Falls. Above these waterfalls, higher on the walls of the ravine, are found the Light Side and the Dark Side areas. Named based on the amount of sun they get on a normal winter day, the Light Side comes in rarely and goes out quickly. The Dark SIde has both upper and lower sections which have become decidedly more popular in recent years as the number of climbers has increased.

Getting There 

Follow directions to get to Platte Clove.

The land between the road and the Devils Kitchen proper is private. The only legal access is to locate the trail near the artists cabin (which is located between the roadside parking area and the trailhead parking). Follow the trail down towards the Kitchen and locate a single rope rappel to drop in.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.6 miles from here

10 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Devil's Kitchen

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Devil's Kitchen:
Purgatory   WI5- M5     Trad, Sport, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 80'   
Bridal Veil Falls   WI3-4     Trad, TR, Ice, 1 pitch, 80'   
Dream a Little Dream   WI4+ M8     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 60'   
Plattekill Falls   WI3     Ice, 1 pitch, 70'   
3rd Corner   WI4-     Ice, 1 pitch, 90'   
2nd Corner   WI4     Ice, 1 pitch   
Smear   WI4+ M6-     TR, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Devil's Kitchen

Featured Route For Devil's Kitchen
Rock Climbing Photo: Pat living the dream.

Purgatory WI5- M5  New York : Catskills (Ice) : ... : Devil's Kitchen
Purgatory is one of the mega classic routes in the Catskills, and more generally, the northeast. Adirondack legend Joe Szot put up this route ground up on trad gear in a 3+ hour lead. His staunch trad ethic was not enough to stop this route from being subsequently bolted. Although it no longer offers the experience that Joe had on the first ascent, it still can be found in compelling conditions that make for a proud day.The route climbs moderate ice to a notch/corner where bolts protect what can...[more]   Browse More Classics in New York

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