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Devil's Kitchen Headwall (DKH) - Right Variation 


Type:  Ice, Alpine, 2 pitches, 500', Grade II
Original: AI2-3 Mod. Snow [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 95
Submitted By: Ben Stabley on Jul 26, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: dkh v2 with some helpful labels.


Also called Variation 2 (V2) in Mullee's "Mt Hood Climber's Guide", this alternative to the standard DKH route (Left var or V1) provides a more interesting way to get to the fun bits of the Wyeast route.

The route is found in the corner where the Devil's Kitchen Headwall and the Steel Cliffs join. It begins on moderate snow. Approximately half way up, a fork is encountered where the left path dead-ends. This could be a good spot to set up a belay for the upper part, which is steeper. At the fork, continue on the right path, more or less straight up. After climbing through a steep final bit, you'll arrive on top of the Steel Cliffs. Choose your favorite way to navigate the fun gendarmes of the upper Wyeast route and head for the summit.


a few ice screws, 2-3 pickets. Will depend a lot on conditions.

When we climbed, at the beginning of June, the snow in the runnels was firm, but the steeper upper part was rotten ice-snow. Earlier in the season may be more solid rime, which would likely be prefered.

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