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Devil's Gap

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Orient Point - North 
Phantom Crag 
Planters Valley 

Devil's Gap Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on Aug 10, 2011

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The Devil's Gap in the South Ghost. Orient point o...


Home of Planters Valley, Bonanza Area, Kemp Shield, Orient Point, Spectre Crag, The Phantom Tower, etc...

Getting There 

Also known as Lake Minnewanka Valley.

From the bottom of The Big Hill to Planters Valley:
Turn left into the riverbed and head south hopefully following a "road" of sorts in the soft loose rocks. Pass several large boulder breakwaters until it is possible to finish crossing the riving and come up the other bank. Follow the good road south for about 100m, where it then turns west to a three-way intersection. Go straight and cross some gravel flats and possibly cross shallow creeks in several spots (depending on water levels) and a gravel / dirt "road" that ends at the Banff National Park Boundary sign and pullout.

The "First Branch" from the 3-way just follows the river south somewhere. The "middle branch" ends up at the same planters valley parking by the Banff sign, but has recently been tougher to navigate.

If the road is terrible from the intersection, getting out and walking isn't to bad.

Don't drive into the national park because: 1. You'll hardly get any closer to the climber area, maybe saving 10 minutes of walking and you'll likely get a huge fine if you get busted.

Climbing Season

For the Alberta area.

Weather station 9.4 miles from here

6 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Devil's Gap

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Devil's Gap:
Rainbow Serpent   WI6     Ice, 2 pitches, 400'   Phantom Crag
Malignant Mushroom   WI5     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 180'   Phantom Crag
Fearful Symmetry   WI6     Ice, 1 pitch, 180'   Phantom Crag
Wicked Wanda   WI4+     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 180'   Orient Point - North
Aquarius   WI4     Ice, 1 pitch, 200'   Phantom Crag
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Devil's Gap

Featured Route For Devil's Gap
Rock Climbing Photo: Wicked Wanda, as seen shortly after leaving the pa...

Wicked Wanda WI4+  North America : Canada : ... : Orient Point - North
As you approach the route, it will be obvious where the crux is . . . at the top! It will be wise to check out potential lines through the top as early as you can.Start by climbing 25m of WI4 ice to a big ledge about half way up. There is a bolted anchor in the back, but it may be covered. Either set up a belay here, or continue on. Depending on the season, the ice and the finish on the second-half of the route will vary considerably. Climb another 30m or so up to and through the overhangs t...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Devil's Gap Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Orient Point as seen from the approach road into t...
Orient Point as seen from the approach road into t...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Phantom Tower, Bonanza Area, Kemp Shield, etc....
The Phantom Tower, Bonanza Area, Kemp Shield, etc....

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