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Devil's Cut 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: FA: Jared Incillo (TR Orig Route) FA Lead: Doug Kern (Flash) & Morgan Patterson
New Route: Yes
Season: Not Summer
Page Views: 1,069
Submitted By: Morgan Patterson on Sep 23, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Shylo Killing Devil's Cut

Description 

Start in the corner below the massive overhanging arete left of Crackrock Corner. Climb up the corner passing a detached block which forms a small roof and continue up the corner to a large ledge (6 Bolts). From the ledge, step left onto the dike and up into an small overlap, layback diagonally up and right past one more overlap and tenuous moves to a rest at the last overlap(3 bolts). Fire for the top, mantle to anchors (2 Bolt Rap Anchor).

Protection 

9 bolts to 2 bolt rap anchor


Photos of Devil's Cut Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Shylo cruising up the Devil's Cut on a beautiful f...
Shylo cruising up the Devil's Cut on a beautiful f...
Rock Climbing Photo: Devil's Cut Beta
BETA PHOTO: Devil's Cut Beta

Comments on Devil's Cut Add Comment
Show which comments
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
From: CT
Sep 23, 2014

Nice job Doug!
By JIncillo
Sep 27, 2014
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Easy first half climbing leads up to a crux lay-back. At the final bolt reach out left for a great jug and work your feet up for an exciting dyno to the top. Or for a more exposed and fun finish work out left onto the face and reach up left for the arete working up to the anchor.
By Echoinfi
Oct 13, 2014

Good route. Nice and long.
By Leif
Nov 4, 2014

Fun climbing BUT dangerous. Fall from 2nd to last bolt is onto a ledge (plum line off bolt is to ledge). This is X rated as it currently stands. Perhaps an additional bolt a few feet above the second to last would keep you off the ledge.
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
From: CT
Nov 5, 2014

Hey Lief glad u checked out some of the new routes! I'm pretty sure you're saying after you clip the 2nd to last bolt you are in ledge fall range and you will die if you fall here because that's what x rated means. If thats the case I think I disagree on both fronts. BUT most importantly, I'm not at all opposed to adding another bolt. I would also note you can climb this on the left side laybacking the crack and you can also work you way up on the right side of it directly above the ledge. The bolts were put out left so you'd climb the left side and have clean falls out left. That said you're concern might be valid.

Take a look at this image of Shylo climbing after the second bolt to last bolt. At this point, Shylo is on a huge jug and is about an arms length from clipping the last bolt. The ledge is marked by the lowest yellow horizontal line. I measured the distances from his waist to that second bolt and from second bolt to last bolt and then extended those down towards the ledge. They don't appear to come close so my thought is with a bad belay or screwing up the last clip (while holding the jug) you might deck on that ledge but that's pretty typical sort of way to one could get hurt even on the most well protected routes.

Rock Climbing Photo: Ground fall?
Ground fall?


Were you thinking about going from the 3rd to last bolt to the second to last bolt maybe? There could be a potential there of hitting the ledge but I don't think that's an X rated (death) fall. In the below image I drew this scenario by estimating the distance of the climber's hips to the bolt when clipping that second to last bolt and extended it down, it does come close to the ledge. If you're talking about this scenario, do you think another bolt in the green boxed area would negate the issue? Or do you think the second to last should be pulled and two more placed in that area?

Rock Climbing Photo: Bolt needed in green box?
Bolt needed in green box?


I think it you fell making a clip with full length rope out on these it wouldn't be good but then that's the case with most sport climbs. I'm also not positive but I don't think the rock in the green area is solid and it might not be able to take a bolt...We'll have to check it again and see.

Either way I set it to R for now as I think it's better to be safe then sorry.
By Echoinfi
Apr 18, 2015

This could be a great route if the anchor was fixed and the bolts moved a bit.
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
From: CT
Apr 20, 2015

Suggestions as to which bolts and where?
By szheng
Mar 28, 2016

I thought this route was super fun and totally safe. My friends took several falls off the 2nd to last bolt and we were never concerned with hitting the ledge below.
By Will M
From: Denver, CO
Apr 1, 2016

Yesterday I watched someone fall a few moves before clipping the last bolt, and they came dangerously close to the ledge - probably less that a foot from getting hurt. I would not recommend this route unless you are very solid at the grade.

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