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Devil's Butthole 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 15'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
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Page Views: 121
Submitted By: Ramoun Cabuhay on Jan 3, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Lower section of Devil's Butthole leading up to th...

Description 

This was one of the longer potential climbs we found on our search for routes. The start can be a bit reachy for some when approaching by kayak, especially during periods of low tide.

What we did was start on the obvious jug and follow the crack up where it ends on a sloper at the base of the dark hole. From there is a dyno to a two-hand jug, then follow up the yellow stained rock.

The rating is a very rough estimate. The route has a bit of an overhang and the crux is where the dark hole is.

Location 

Left of Mango shake

Protection 

Overhanging so falls are clean


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