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Devil's Advocate 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tyler Phillips, NateWilliams, Tyler Maconville
Page Views: 2,797
Submitted By: tenesmus on May 9, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (59)
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Molly H climbing because she can't ski Alta yet

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  • Description 

    Fun .10a warmup.


    Right at the top of the trail to the Far East Hellgate is a pine tree and an arete/flake with bolts on its left. This is the route.


    9 bolts, chains.

    Photos of Devil's Advocate Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: A lead on Devil's Advocate
    A lead on Devil's Advocate
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ruth on Devils Advocate
    Ruth on Devils Advocate
    Rock Climbing Photo: Myself getting into the stiffer climbing of Devils...
    Myself getting into the stiffer climbing of Devils...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Meredith cleaning this gem.
    Meredith cleaning this gem.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Sydney on the sharp end.
    Sydney on the sharp end.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mary on lead.
    Mary on lead.
    Rock Climbing Photo: One of the most aesthetic and photogenic routes at...
    One of the most aesthetic and photogenic routes at...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Another shot of the upper portion of the lead on D...
    Another shot of the upper portion of the lead on D...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Austin Black leading this great climb
    Austin Black leading this great climb
    Rock Climbing Photo: Fun 5.10
    Fun 5.10
    Rock Climbing Photo: Devil's Advocate
    BETA PHOTO: Devil's Advocate

    Comments on Devil's Advocate Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 10, 2017
    By JimG
    Sep 5, 2008
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    This has cleaned up to be a very good route. Fun face climbing on good, featured rock. If you are looking for an easier 10a route up there I would recommend this. Great little belay spot right next to that big pine tree as an added bonus; take some beers, kick back and enjoy the Alta life.
    By Alan Avedovech
    From: Salt Lake City, Utah
    Aug 29, 2010

    Awesome climb, awesome exposure!
    By Landon McBrayer
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Jul 19, 2011
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    By user id
    Jul 20, 2011

    5.8 ?

    I am so impressed by you,
    so is everyone else on here!
    By Alex Quitiquit
    From: Salt Lake City
    May 23, 2012
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    Best moderate climb at Hellgate! Awesome aesthetic line up an arete/pillar... made all the better for it being consistent and offers great views. Gave it 4 stars for the area.

    Awesome place to take someone to get their first 9+/10a lead.
    By tenesmus
    Jul 6, 2012

    I was climbing this the other day and a guy told me to do the 2-bolt extension. So I was like, " Cool, Tyler must have added a few extra feet of climbing." But then I saw the bolts right next to the perfect handcrack and was pretty sure he wouldn't do that. I think the guy said his name was Greg and had the impression it was 'The Greg' who did all the Hellgate stuff and was kind of psyched to meet him. But my kids were kind of freaked out by all the cussing so we laid low. And then I thought, "Nah, that can't be that Greg because he got super upset when Sanderson extended one of his lines. He'd never do something like that because he'd know that would be uncool to Tyler. Maybe he worked it out with him and I need to STFU? Probably.
    By D. Durrant
    From: Utah, USA
    Sep 21, 2012

    Good route, the first pitch is soft even for the grades at the Hellgate. I think if the extension is added it brings the grade a little closer to .10a. Quality rock, fun jams at the top, a must do if you are at the wall regardless of who thinks what about the grade.
    By Jason Shumaker
    From: Salt Lake City, Utah
    Jul 18, 2013

    Clay: one star?

    I liked this route; fun!
    By tenesmus
    Jul 19, 2013

    Only because of the bolted crack without asking the FA's permission from someone who complained ad nausea about an extension to one of his routes.
    By benjaminleaton Eaton
    From: Sandy, UT
    Jul 22, 2013

    A fun gem for the area. A cool feature on the wall like that should always have a route on it. I'm curious why it doesn't go all the way up?
    By mudgek
    Aug 17, 2016

    There are 10 bolts plus the chains on Devil's Advocate, not 9. Also, there are new anchor bolts and chains replacing the suspect bolt commented on in June. The old anchor bolts are still there,sans chains.
    By Cassidy Thomas
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Sep 16, 2016

    It's worth doing once as long as long as you link it with Devil's Advocate on Crack, the 15 foot extension. The view from the top is pretty nice. Otherwise, I wouldn't say the actual climbing is anything special.
    By Graden Swett
    From: Salt Lake City, Utah
    Aug 10, 2017

    Went up Devils Advocate and DA on Crack 8/8/17 and the anchor bolts for both are starting to look suspect. Spinning hangers on both anchors, DAOC anchors have about a 3/4 inch gap of bolt sticking out between the hanger and rock, rock showing cracks around the bolt hole. Bolts seem tight, but erosion is quickly deteriorating those anchors. Beware.

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