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BETA PHOTO: Photo by H. Harris, 05/04/03
This route begins just left of Witch Hunt in an obvious vertical offwidth (10-). At the top of the offwidth the low angle crack veers slightly left and narrows to tips (9). Higher up the tips crack becomes steeper and angles right towards a ledge underneath a small overhang (10+). An intermittent 2" wide rail is 2' above the crack. The crux (11-) is a difficult stem / reach move, from where the tips crack and rail end, to the ledge (Slightly runout but bomber TCU's are 5' behind you).
I removed A LOT of "potato chip" flakes from the faces on either side of the tips crack (solid) enroute to the top. The route quality would improve with more
Many small pieces including brass, small stoppers,and #00 - #2 TCU's plus a couple of 3.5 - 4" cams. The climb ends 90' from the ground on a ledge with a small oak tree which can be slung. Small - medium cams work well to supplement the anchor. From the ledge climb 15' to the top of Witch Hunt and rappel off of a one bolt (5/8") anchor (two ropes to the ground OR rappel to the two bolt anchor at the top of South of Heaven and then to the ground.
The crack at the start is two stars but the loose ...
At the top of the offwidth section. The tips crack...
By Peter V Braun
From: San Diego, Ca
Mar 15, 2017
Great adventurous climb! It was a perfect complement to the approach. It will definitely improve as traffic cleans off more holds. The one clean edge on the final traverse was a godsend - thanks Vernon!