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Devils Advocate on Crack 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 105'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bobby Gray, GregMartinez, Laura Dewy Aug 16/08
New Route: Yes
Season: summer
Page Views: 254
Submitted By: Greg Martinez on Aug 18, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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60 meter barely puts you on the ground. Watch you...

  • Don't park on the dirt road on weekdays; parking is allowed only on weekends.
  • Park your car off of the main canyon road.
  • Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    past anchor on devils advocate

    Location 

    70 METER ROPE OR RAP OFF DEVILS ADVOCATE CHAINS

    Protection 

    2 BOLTS PAST ANCHOR TO CHAINS


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    Rock Climbing Photo: LAURA DEWEY coming up
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    Comments on Devils Advocate on Crack Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Alan Avedovech
    From: Salt Lake City, Utah
    Oct 14, 2010
    rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

    Sweet top out put with exposure.
    By Stan Pitcher
    From: SLC, UT
    Jul 22, 2011
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Sweet route! With a 60m, belay on top and enjoy the view (be kind to the cool plant there). The rap will just barely get you back to base.
    By John Martin2
    Sep 11, 2016

    The higher bolt on the second anchor seems to move a little, so use caution. However most of the weight seems to go on the lower bolt when rapping down. I made the rap with a stretchy 60m rope
    By Cassidy Thomas
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Sep 16, 2016

    This is only about a 15 foot extension of Devil's Advocate (2 extra bolts).
    By Graden Swett
    From: Salt Lake City, Utah
    Aug 10, 2017
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    CAUTION
    Went up Devils Advocate and DA on Crack 8/8/17 and the anchor bolts for both are starting to look suspect. Spinning hangers on both anchors, DAOC anchors have about a 3/4 inch gap of bolt sticking out between the hanger and rock, rock showing cracks around the bolt hole. Bolts seem tight, but erosion is quickly deteriorating those anchors. Beware.

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