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Devil in the White House
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Devil in the White House 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
Page Views: 3,534
Submitted By: Kyle Townsend on Nov 9, 2010

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Kevin R pulling through the crux of Devil in the W...


Devil in the White House climbs a well-featured face to a V1-ish boulder problem in the roof, and then finishes on a system of steep ledges. The line traverses left on the face before the roof, then back right at the roof. Someone retro-added a lower first bolt, which was subsequently chopped. Oh Pilot...


To the right of Herculean Test, uphill (climbers right) from the Black Rain Wall.



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 11, 2016
By sanz
From: Raleigh, NC
Nov 14, 2011

Plenty of ways to climb this one. I don't think any of them are 5.11. The face crux is a bit cryptic but straightforward once unlocked. Either way you tackle the roof, it's a jug haul. Fun climb with lots of variety. A nice warmup for the harder stuff in the Ampitheater.
By nbrown
From: western NC
Mar 12, 2012

This is a fun route, although some of the rock feels a bit funky (hollow) at times. Definitely not PG13 though -- put a cam in at the start if uncomfortable with getting to the bolt line.
By Rmsyll
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Jul 21, 2012

This route is between the Amphitheater and Big Arete areas. Going uphill on Ledge Springs Trail, you will go along a tall gray wall with a Sport bolt route to the right, the very popular 'Black Rain'. That wall has a vegetated vertical crack, then a sharp block angled out overhead with a yellow-orange color. Just past that, the wall will turn away from the trail, and that yellow-orange wall is where 'Devil' is to the right end before the big vertical crack. The ring anchors can be reached for top-rope, but it is a risky down-climb to a vegetated ledge that wraps left at the big pine. The small pine at the end is over the rings.

Kelley's guide had this route as 10d/11a, with "an easier variation" to the right toward the big crack. Jeff Dillon's pocket guide gave it 10+, with 'Herculean Test' as 11-. Most people who can do both routes say that 'Devil' is harder. The crux is clipping the third bolt and starting up from there. Most will cheat that sequence by moving left from the second bolt, or to the right. The left line is said to be more esthetic, but not really easier. It is possible to clip the third bolt from the right, which is usually easier but not easy. What remains true is that footing will be a greater problem than grips. There are many photos at
By Noah.J
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 4, 2013

Use caution, 1st bolt is worn out. There are several mm of free play in the vertical plane. 0.3-0.4 camalot or pink tricam can protect/back up the sketchball bolt in the horizontal directly below.
By 5.samadhi
Nov 26, 2013

this was considered mid 5.10 when I climbed it 10+ years ago.

Grade inflation???
By Eric Gawalt
From: Raleigh, NC
Apr 7, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Top anchors for DiTWH and Herculean Test were replaced April 6th, 2014 with nonlocking steel biners at the end of chains to facilitate easier cleaning.

I think Devil's easier than a 5.10d, closer to 5.10b, but definitely a must for each trip. Going left through the roof is a little harder than wandering right. A few big moves on good holds gets you up and over, and you're well protected during the harder parts.
By Kurtrude
Jun 23, 2014
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Route was fun, but didn't feel anywhere near 5.11-. Felt more around 5.10b zone.

In the context of the bolting on the route, there are three things that (I think) should be addressed. The third bolts hanger was spinning freely on the bolt. I didn't notice any overly rusty bolts. And lastly, whoever installed the new anchors on this route and Black Rain were both nice upgrades.
By jarthur
From: Westminster, CO
Mar 22, 2015

Kurt and N. Blanc you two sandbagg'n clowns do realize that people climb 5.15c sport these days don't you? So if you want to knock down an obvious 5.11a down to a 5.10b so you can stick your chest out a little further while you head over to Mellow Mushroom after a day of craggin at NC's premier crag Pilot Mtn you go right ahead. I'll be back home in Colorado crying myself to sleep in my big fat pillow because NC grades are so much harder than my home crag Sport Park in Boulder Canyon :-)
By Steve Lineberry
From: Charlotte, NC
Mar 23, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I see a lot of people go out left and make what seems like 10 moves between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. I've always gone direct on this one, not left at all and not very far right. I take one step right and then put my left foot on the good hold directly below the second bolt and then make a hard move. I like this beta because I'm very in line with the bolting and I essentially make one hard move and then I can clip the third bolt. I feel like that move is 10d/11a but the rest of the route is probably 9/10a or so. So if you want to use the NC averaging grading system I could maybe see it being 10b/c but I think 10d is appropriate.
By dave Hause
From: carrboro, nc
Mar 29, 2015
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I take the same line as ShockSLL states (just right of 1st & 2nd bolts) but because of my height/ arm length, I can reach a little to my right and grab a super jug to clip from. Then everyone says "Oh, you just did the 5.9 variation". If so, a very thin 5.9 indeed.
By Steve Lineberry
From: Charlotte, NC
Mar 30, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Yea, those people don't know what they are talking about. The 5.9 variation traverses a lot farther right than what I was referring to. Yes, I can reach the horn looking jug that you are referring to that is shared with going direct and the 5.9 variation but with my reach I actually clip lower from the shelf.
By Adam Fleming
From: Moab, Utah
May 11, 2016

To protect the first difficult moves, stand on the largest ledge. Look right around torso level for a perfect pink tricam placement (slides in from left to right, behind a constriction).

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