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Devil Goat 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 220', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Zak Gerhardt Aaron Weaver '02
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 410
Submitted By: zak on Jun 28, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Dante in red, Devil Goat in green

  • Use the established trails
  • Park your car off of the main canyon road.
  • Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    From bolted anchor on pedestal climb up clipping 12 bolts, long runner useful in middle. Crux at top pulling bulge .11b more bolts above. A 60m will get you down to the belay, two ropes needed from there.


    Approx. 100 ft. left of Hell Freezes over. Climb the first pitch of Dante (5.10), traverse left 30 ft. on sandy ledge belay at bolted anchor on pedestal.


    Dante 1st pitch need draws and one of each #1,2,3,4 camalots. Could bring another #2 if you wanted to double up first piece. The crack widens up but it is easy then. Need two ropes to rappel.

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