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YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c R

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, Grade V
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c R [details]
Season: Spring, summer Fall
Page Views: 2,198
Submitted By: Paul F Rose on Apr 24, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Route topo

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


P1 - 5.6/7R with relatively sparce natural pro until you get to a rusty pin where you step left on to a thin sloping dike, 5.8R, and diagonal up to a 2 bolt belay. P2 up a 5.8R slab to a corner with a much appreciated #2 set, dance around the corner onto a sea of granite waves, 5.2. Move up slightly left to a good natural ledge with good sets. P3 a short vertical Dike 5.9R (tasty)and onto a diagonal dike that runs up to the 4th belay of Snake Dike, 5.2R. There are a couple of bolts along this run, and you will need to use one of them for a belay, as a 70 meter rope is still short. From there finish on Snake Hike


When Snake Dike is full and you are feeling a bit more adventurous, the next route to the left is Deuceldike. This will run you around the first 4 pitches of Snake Dike and land you where the route turns to 5.3-. At this point it is easy to share space.


Maybe 2 bolts per pitch, and sparse natural protection (only on the first 2 pitches) pieces #2 and smaller

Photos of Deuceldike Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark on the upper 5.2 diagonal "sidewalk"...
Mark on the upper 5.2 diagonal "sidewalk"...

Comments on Deuceldike Add Comment
Show which comments
By mucci
From: sf ca
Apr 29, 2015

Hey Paul,

Did you climb this route recently?

I believe that roger Brown replaced the bolts on this and most of the other routes in the area a few years ago.
By Doug Hemken
From: Madison, WI
Apr 30, 2015

The bolts that were there have not been replaced Supertopo

more Supertopo
By Paul F Rose
From: Atascadero
Jun 1, 2015

There are no new bolts on P1 1, and the pin that exists looks to be a confidence only piece, but the belay stance is good. P2 has a good placement then run out to a good natural belay skinny ledge. P3 has a good (new looking) bolt in middle of the 5.9 vertical dike, and the a couple of old pins to a single "newish" bolt halfway up the inclined "sidewalk". The pins I refer to are old rusty bolts. Yes we climbed it 4/24/15.

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