The Detox Wall has some great moderate (10.a to 11.b/c) sport routes. The granite is very unique and the climbing is pumpy and fun. Good for a day of cragging.
Numerous weathered cracks wind their way up Detox wall. The climbing tends to use these cracks and other features on the verical granite face. Climbs vary from 5.9 to 5.11d, and tend to be pretty sustained for the entirety of the 50 feet of climbing. There are also some sport routes not mentioned in Carville's guide around the corner to the right, they go at .10d, .10c and .9 from left to right.
Upon reaching the Distillery Wall, walk down and to the right around the base of Luther Rock. You will come to a low-angle slab from which the climb Jonesin' ascends to the main ledge below Detox Wall. If climbing this 10a doesn't appeal to you, you may also continue around the base of the rock and ascend a chimney to reach the ledge, or 10 feet left of the chimney there is an easy face (5.5) that you may solo. The climbs not mentioned in the book start right of the chimney, beneath the ledge, so don't climb up there for these climbs.
Weather station 1.1 miles from here
10 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Detox Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Detox Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Detox Wall:
Methadone 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Featured Route For Detox Wall
Daily Prayer 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b CA
: ... : Detox Wall
This is the second route from the right on the Detox wall, and shares the top anchor and top three bolts with Betty Ford's Route (5.9).Climb up fun, but hard face climbing for the first two bolts, and then into a much needed rest below a small roof. Pull the roof, and keep heading up the face through run out, but simple climbing until the climb meets up with Betty Ford's route, with which it shares the last 3 bolts. The crux, depending on who you ask, is either pulling the roof, or clipping th...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
BETA PHOTO: Detox wall at sunset from the scree field portion ...
BETA PHOTO: Luther Rock Overview Map