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Detached Retina 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Lynn, Apple
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 518
Submitted By: Hermes Lynn on Mar 26, 2012

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New access to Allenspur climbing MORE INFO >>>


The bolts are spacious so be prepared for some flight time. Climb straight off dirty bird ledge. Need a 70 m rope to lower.

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By Colin O'Brien
From: Bozeman, MT
Jun 22, 2017

When I climbed this on Wednesday, June 21, there wass a 2 bolt anchor around bolt 8 or 10, after all the hard climbing. The next few bolts that I could see were missing hangers. The route is easily doable with a 60m rope, and still goes at 12a.

The 2 bolt anchor is hangers only - I left a non-locker and a locking biner on the two bolts so you can lower. I'll add quicklinks next week or so to the anchors for a more permanent station.

Watch for loose rock headed to the anchors. There are a few sizeable chunks ready to come down. This is a good climb for your belayer to wear a helmet.

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