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Cuatro Manos T 
Detachable Penis T 

Detachable Penis 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Murf, Ben Craft, AJ, Tom Michael
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 260
Submitted By: Murf on Apr 4, 2004

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Description 

Left of Cuatro Manos, this is the center crack on the Detached Wall. Crack starts in an alcove, with a flake on the outside edge. A large, downward jutting, phallic shaped flake sits just right of the crack at the top of the alcove.

Climb the creaky flake to good finger jams at the top of the alcove. A leader may want to avoid using the as-yet undetached flake, although it is reported as solid. Continue through an offwidth to another section of good fingers and thin hands.


Protection 

Standard rack, plus #4 Camalot, a small nut/purple TCU may be used at the start.


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By Ben Craft
Apr 7, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The route is left of Cuatro Manos. The phallic in question is actually rock solid and makes the move into the slot a lot easier.
By Vernon Stiefel
Dec 7, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Sustained and varied climbing on good rock makes this a challenging and engaging lead - three out of five stars. Don't yard too hard on the "flaccid" phallus!

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