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Shirt Tail Peak
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Can't Find My Way Home T 
Cro-Magnon aka The Tail T 
Destruction T 
Double Life T 
Emperor's New Shoes, The T 
Future Primitive T 
Gambit T 
Ginseng Junkie T 
Giuoco Piano Direct T 
King Of Pain T,S,TR 
Missing Link T 
Moriarty's Mistake T 
Moriarty's Revenge T 
Mountaineer's Route T 
Mrs. Clean Gets Down T,S,TR 
Serrated Jam Crack T 
Sorenson Crack T 
Throne, The T,S 
Tiger Balm Arete T 
Windlass or 'The Tail' T 


YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R [details]
FA: Andy Donson, Marc Gay
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 647
Submitted By: Andy Donson on Jan 10, 2004

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  • Description 

    This route climbs the left side of the prominent bulging prow of Shirt-tail, just left of the crux pitch of Tiger Balm Arete. Continuous climbing, technical gear and sweet exposure make this a memorable pitch. The route was headpointed, and would be a tough, but not unreasonably reckless ground up lead.

    Start one pitch up Tiger Balm on a spacious pedestal.Climb Tiger Balm p.2 as far as the bolt, then traverse left around an arete and into a hanging L-facing corner. Climb to the top of this(10+ s/vs) where a shake out and good gear can be had. Battle up and left into another hanging L-facing corner (crux, 12a/b s). Place some tricky gear in the corner (crucial blue alien and #8 rock) then stem up and right (11a s/vs), eventually joining the arete and easier ground. Run up to the large tree and terrace. You can rap from bolts on top of King of Pain and scramble down to the base. These bolts can also be used to t.r. off of with a few directionals.


    Doubles of one inch cams and down, double set of nuts to one inch, RPs, 2 blue aliens (crucial), double ropes, one 3.5 inch cam, long slings.

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