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YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ???????
Page Views: 2,117
Submitted By: burlap submariner on Sep 15, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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BETA PHOTO: Desperation is the face just left of the BBB crack...


This route was recently retro bolted and its a situation where it was well warranted. I've climbed this route pre and post bolts and having solid fixed protection does not detract from the climbing.
Start left of the BBB and climb 10 feet up to the first bolt, move up and left on thin edges and slopers to a ledge, traverse slightly left then back right on steep slopers and jugs to a strange v slot at a roof, layback around the v slot getting your feet on a small ledge below the slot, rest then move up on less than inspiring rock to the chains.


Just left of the BBB on the main approach trail to the cliff.


the crux and below is sporty bolted, after the v groove I would bring a small rack .4-2.

Photos of Desperation Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Passing the 3rd of 5 bolts
BETA PHOTO: Passing the 3rd of 5 bolts

Comments on Desperation Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 12, 2015
By JChepes
From: West Ossipee, NH
Sep 16, 2012

Love the homemade bolts.
By Brunt Tornton
From: NH
Sep 19, 2012

layback crux is totally sweet!
By And Partner
Sep 20, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Homemade hangers are gone.
We replaced them with painted store bought hangers.
By Joe Terravecchia
Sep 20, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Nice clean 5.7 face to a bolt protected one move 8+/9- step up at the layback.
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Sep 21, 2012

is this the route that finish left of the finger crack (bbb?) in that flare?
By Joe Terravecchia
Sep 21, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Yeah, the bolted line just left of BBB that leads up to a layback flake.
By Matt Desenberg
From: North Berwick, ME
Apr 28, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Off-balancy moves lead to a cool move around the flake, but not the greatest route at the Pond.
By Brendan Blanchard
From: Boulder, CO
May 9, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Does this start directly under the first bolt, or slightly to the right?
By JChepes
From: West Ossipee, NH
May 19, 2013

I started right under the first bolt. Nice quartz cube for the start. Couple of 5.7 face moves to the first bolt.
By Eli
From: Lives in a truck
Jul 5, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

If you're at Stonehouse, I'd say this is a 'must climb'
By jimmybob
Dec 2, 2013

the climbing after the layback above the last bolt is really easy if anybody was worried about running it out or doesnt have trad gear.
By Corey Thompson
From: Louisville, CO
Jun 30, 2014

I placed two cams after the bolts. It's nice, but not totally necessary.
By Jay Morse
From: Hooksett, New Hampshire
Dec 12, 2015

The middle of the route is excellent!

Be confident on 5.7-5.8 face climbing to get to the first bolt, you wouldn't want to fall from up there before clipping it.

I recommend some cams for the top. I placed two, but it is easy climbing, probably 5.5.

The location of the anchor is such that your rope will be abraded on the rock on lower. I suggest rapping off.

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