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McIntyre Creek
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Desperate Measures T,TR 
Green Circle T 
Life is Suffering T 
Memories of Squamish T,TR 
Pusher T,TR 
Worst Case Scenario T 
Yoga Man T,TR 

Desperate Measures 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 66'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: ?
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 60
Submitted By: Alex Weber on Jul 19, 2014

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Description 

Start just left of the major dihedral using some side pulls and hidden underclings. Move up over the bulge using some crazy yoga moves / sidepull nonsense (crux 1). Stand on the ledge and clip the second bolt. Move up the face to the next ledge and clip the 3rd bolt out right (crux 2). From here the climb finishes through the same ending as Life is Suffering. Bring some cams for extra protection up here.

Location 

Starts left of the major dihedral.

Protection 

3 bolts (upgraded to 4 bolts in 2017), top anchors. Bring cams for the ending, as this is potential deck territory. Please be very cautious with this climb, as the bolts are few and far between (although possibly much safer now).


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By mountainmack
Jul 19, 2016

I disagree that this climb needs an 'R' rating. Clipping the second bolt has potential for a nasty ground fall but that is the case with many climbs in Yukon and elsewhere.

I would agree that gear is recommended for the top - probably a BD 0.4, 0.5 and 0.75 would do it but the placements are solid so I am not sure why there is an 'R' rating.
By mountainmack
Jul 19, 2016

Also, the reach to pull on to get to the second ledge (where you can clip the third bolt) is a major reach for the vertically challenged among us ... like me. I am 5'6" and can just barely make the reach even on a good day!
By Alex Weber
Jul 21, 2016

I changed it to PG13
By Derek Cronmiller
Jan 4, 2017

not very fun, not very safe.
By Karst
Jul 26, 2017

I was here yesterday and there are now 4 bolts on this route. Three Down low and one midway up the climb, a new bolt was added between the old 1st and 2nd bolt. I'd bring some gear to protect the top where there are lots of options for placement and good positions to place gear from.
By Alex Weber
Jul 26, 2017

Oh great to hear about the added bolt. I love safety!

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