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Desperate (Left) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 626
Submitted By: Chris Wenker on Mar 16, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Kor's Dog (5.8), Desperate (Left) 5.8, and Despera...


This is the first listed variant of route #12 in the online guide.
Start up a broken crack system to a bulging block. Go around the right side, then aim left to gain a stance below a pair of converging cracks. Follow the flaring crack/seam on the right to the top.

Desperate (Left) is indicated as an option in the online guide, and by Beverly (2006:208) and Jackson (2006:189-190).
It's not clear from the guide books if the hand crack immediately to the left (Kor's Dog) is on or off. The online guide describes Desperate (Left) as following the "left-trending crack system to the top" (italics added), so I'd argue that both cracks are on-route, since they're only ~14 inches apart at the top.


On the west-facing cliff. Start on the cracked face left of Gymnast/Upper Kor's.


Standard trad rack to 2.5". Gear anchor on top.

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By Chris Wenker
From: Santa Fe
Mar 16, 2009

At the top, the hand crack just to the left is apparently the 5.8 route "Kor's Dog." These cracks converge at the top, where they're only ~14 inches apart, so calling them separate routes seems contrived, if by that you mean that one crack is off-limits while you're climbing the other one.
I stuck with the Desperate crack until the last 3 feet, when I had to submit to the urge to jam a cam in Kor's Dog and yard up on the hand jams offered by that crack. Plus, all the while, I had been stemming off the wall farther left of Kor's Dog, so..... Was that wrong, should I not have done that?
By Devin Shunk
Mar 17, 2009

I agree completely. This isn't a gym. If it is within my reach, I will use it (a 6'8" wingspan allows me to reach many things that some probably consider "off-route" - but I don't care, I need all the help I can get). ;)
By LeeAB Brinckerhoff
From: ABQ, NM
Mar 17, 2009

I would agree for any area, you are outside everything is on. If a previous party did not use it that is their problem not yours and they were trying to force something that is not there or did a poor job of forcing it.

@ Devin, you make it sound as though a 6'8" wingspan is a disadvantage with your wording. I would tend to say that most people would disagree with that. Though when trying to do a tight cross or something it really is a disadvantage.
By Chris Wenker
From: Santa Fe
Mar 17, 2009

Thanks guys. My George Castanza quote aside, I'm not too terribly worried about my choice to use both cracks. As long as the moves are 5.8.
By Devin Shunk
Mar 17, 2009

No, I didn't mean to make it sound that my wingspan was a bad thing. I can see how it sounds like that. I will change the wording. ;-)

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