REI Community
The Balconies
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Balconies- Regular Route T 
Brosseau Finish, The T 
Desperate Abandon T 
Gold Line T 
Inn Crowd, The T 
Lava Falls T 
No Sense of Measure S 
Powers That Be, The S 
Premeditated T 
Shake-N-Bake T 

Desperate Abandon 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 99
Submitted By: Brad Young on Jan 13, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route starts just right of If We Bolt It They Will Come (route number 711 in the 2007 guidebook).  Move up a long, wide, up-and-right class three and four ramp (the start of the ramp is shown on the topo on page 286 of the 2007 guidebook as a “mossy slab” ).  After three hundred feet, pass a very deep water streak on the left (the route Gold Line is in this streak).  Belay at a single bolt on the main wall, above/to the right of and outside of the streak.  From this belay, continue up the ramp, which narrows and eventually becomes a face.  There is one bolt 35 feet up this "second pitch" - right where the wall gets steeper.  Sustained 5.6 climbing leads past the bolt and then to the right, into a gully.  There is no summit anchor (although the top anchor for the route The Brosseau Finish is within reach after Desperate Abandon turns class three).

Note that the "length" of this route listed above includes the 300 feet of class three and four needed to approach about 50 feet of fifth class climbing.

Walk off the the northwest (under the route Cover Girl), or move down 25 feet to the bolt anchor for the route Gold Line and rappel back to the class three and four starting ramp.

This is a "discovered" climb which was found because of a long length of 7/16 inch Goldline rope which was visible for years, fixed on the upper face, running from the upper bolt to the top of the cliff where it was left “lassoed” over a horn.

For a photo- topo that shows this route and other new/newly discovered climbs nearby, click on this link (which connects to the Mudn'Crud Pinnacles discussion forum - scroll to route number 711.3 and the link at the bottom of that route; I couldn't figure out how to post the photo topo here):

mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?...

Location 

See above.

Protection 

Three or so slings and carabiners.


Comments on Desperate Abandon Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About