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YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ron Skelton, Dan McDevitt, Mark Tuttle (1989)
Page Views: 722
Submitted By: Bryan G on Oct 20, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Brian Prince stopping for a shake and a dip on Des...

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A difficult sport climb up the steep face to the left of Desperate Straights.

Begin in the same chimney as Desperate Straights, then about 15ft up reach around the corner to clip a bolt. Climb out of the chimney and around the corner to a follow the arete past more bolts to another chimney. Either chimney or stem through a runout section to more bolts on the face under a roof. Undercling the bottom of the roof (crux, pretty stout for the grade) then mantel over the lip on huge knobs. Climb up past more big knobs and a couple more bolts to a bolted anchor on a sandy ledge.

The first part of the climb is contrived, hard, awkward and the rock is flakey, but turning the roof is wild and really defines the route, and the upper section is fun knob climbing as well.


Bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap. Some small cams can be used if you chimney through the runout section in the middle. Also bring some shoulder-length slings to extend some of the bolts.

Photos of Desperado Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Great slab climbing to juggy roof, crazy!
Great slab climbing to juggy roof, crazy!
Rock Climbing Photo: Avoid going left side in to the chimney, or else.....
Avoid going left side in to the chimney, or else.....

Comments on Desperado Add Comment
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By Vlad S
Nov 6, 2015

I looked at this route for years and wondered where it starts. I ended up starting in the chimney on the LEFT and traversing the face to the right to reach the first bolt (or 2nd?). Either way is contrived as hell. Getting out of the chimney and getting established on the sidepull/undercling was completely impossible for me. Might as well be 5.13. There's a little rock scar there, where you would reach for the fist hold. Did something break there? The roof with megajugs was glorious, but I doubt I would ever be able to free that utterly blank chimney to undercling transition in the middle. This route is nowhere near 11d.
By EJoe
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Nov 22, 2015
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

We lead it both ways- going directly up the chimney and traversing right to the face. The bolted face adds more difficulty as the moves off the first bolt are quite hard. I agree with Vlad S that the traverse is extremely contrived. It creates unnecessary steps to the climb for the sake of adding a technical crux. It also adds some rope drag if you're using a cam to protect the traverse to the first bolt. It seems a bit silly considering that following the bolt line involves traversing out of the chimney, then back into the chimney, then back out to the arete.

I disagree with the comment that exiting the chimney is 5.13-ish. This section is beta-intensive and it (along with the sidepull/undercling sequence after) represents the physical crux, but it's very high percentage once you dial the moves.

Overall this is a great climb, well worth doing if you can climb 5.11+.
By Vlad S
Nov 23, 2015

I'm just saying that I couldn't figure out the moves, the 5.13 was more of a joke than a serious guess. Did you do a big reach or was there a sequence of some sort for the crux?
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Nov 24, 2015

Vlad, regardless of which way you go at the start (chimney or arete), move back out to the arete above the second bolt and stem your way until you can move into a lieback off the edge of the left side of the chimney. Bust a few moves, clip a bolt then reach out to the good vertical edge under the roof with your left hand. Clip another bolt, move the feet, undercling, clip, another undercling, high right foot, left heel up over the roof, grab the jugs. Done!

You don't even have to do it now! Really cool route actually, great movement under the roof. Contrived start.
By Michael Dom
Dec 13, 2015

I loved this route, I remember getting in those chicken wings and thinking to myself, how do I get out of here? Pulling through the roof, I just batmanned my legs up on it and did a sit up.
By Aaron Formella
From: Atascadero, CA
May 3, 2016

I think the face climbing on the arête of the giant hanging flake is only contrived if you start the route on the left side in the chimney with the broken tree in it. If you start the route behind the giant suspended flake and do the awesome, seemingly improbable moves of moving out from behind the flake and onto it's opposite face (following the bolt line with bolt 1 on the end/edge of the flake) it's not so contrived and is much more fun that way.

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