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North Peak, East Face
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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Buddy Guthrie, Dee Dee Guthrie
Page Views: 2,242
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Nov 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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BETA PHOTO: Desperado. Regular start is on the Center/Left, D...


This is a fantastic 5.9! Climb up the face to reach the overhang and then traverse Right to reach a left facing corner (crux). Follow the corner to a large ledge. The traverse to the right is the business and coolest part of the climb. Well protected and exciting!


Find a fairly obvious overhang and left facing corner system as you walk uphill from Great Imposter.


Hands size gear and smaller.

Photos of Desperado Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Having fun on Deperado
Having fun on Deperado
Rock Climbing Photo: Jon St John pulls the roof on Desperado (5.9) at S...
Jon St John pulls the roof on Desperado (5.9) at S...

Comments on Desperado Add Comment
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By C Runyan
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 21, 2008

Great climb. Exciting moves punctuated by great rests. It doesn't look that pretty from below, but it's a whole lot of fun.
By K Baumgartner
Sep 16, 2012

Couldn't find a placement under the roof, so I ended up clipping the bolt before the traverse that's higher up.

Stellar roof that's a bit of a bear pulling up on with no holds. Definitely a sweet sequence. Next little corner presents some nice finger locks.
By Andy Weinmann
From: Silver Spring, MD
Oct 22, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

You can protect the traverse moves under the roof with a blue-yellow offset master cam/tcu or similar. Bomber piece in a flaring crack that has a bunch of chalk on it. You can also plug great gear in the overhang, below and right of the horn.

No maintained rap station at the top. Bring slings & rings for the tree or be prepared to downclimb the last bit of Roux to a set of shuts above Really Flakey (going south) OR downclimbing 5.2ish by a huge pine tree and ledgey area (going north). You could also probably walk-off if you bring your approach shoes up with you.
By Seth Derr
From: harrisburg, pa
Jun 16, 2015

update to add as of summer 2015 there are rings around a tree at the top of this route

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