REI Community
(q) Mesa Verde Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bad Moon Rising S 
Cosmos S 
Cows in Agony S 
Desolation Row T 
Down's Syndrome S 
Jzero TR 
Massive Luxury Overdose (aka Planet Luxury) S 
Moons of Pluto S 
Palo Verde T 
Reason To Be S 
Screaming Yellow Zonkers S 
Shadow of Doubt S 
Sundown T 
Tale of Two Shitties T 
Trezlar T 

Desolation Row 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 125'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 87
Submitted By: Jon Rhoderick on Nov 12, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

An exciting and well protected route that epitomizes the adventure of climbing obscure trad routes at Smith. Start on easy climbing heading towards a somewhat unnecessary bolt. A brief section of fingers leads into a flare. Pick a shoulder to lead with and go for it, its very strenuous, slightly dirty, and very awkward. At the top of the chimney flare exit using the crack to the left. A very needed rest welcomes you here before the bolt protected lieback crux, great handholds with no feet here, but you'll hit a ledge soon. Above this bolt I saw a lot of loose blocks but it's not hard to avoid them. The anchors are pretty high, and there isn't much hard climbing getting to them. A 70M rope only reaches on rappel with all gear clean and no knots in the rope!

Location 

Between Juniper Face and the Reason to Be Arete, look for the chimney and a bolt low down.

Protection 

Lots of slings! especially for the top. lots of yellow to red Metolius are nice, and a #3 Camalot size was nice for pulling the roof. A sling might be nicer than harness racking on this one.


Comments on Desolation Row Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About