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(q) Mesa Verde Wall
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Bad Moon Rising S 
Cosmos S 
Cows in Agony S 
Desolation Row T 
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Jzero TR 
Massive Luxury Overdose (aka Planet Luxury) S 
Moons of Pluto S 
Palo Verde T 
Reason To Be S 
Screaming Yellow Zonkers S 
Shadow of Doubt S 
Sundown T 
Tale of Two Shitties T 
Trezlar T 

Desolation Row 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 125'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
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Submitted By: Jon Rhoderick on Nov 12, 2013

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An exciting and well protected route that epitomizes the adventure of climbing obscure trad routes at Smith. Start on easy climbing heading towards a somewhat unnecessary bolt. A brief section of fingers leads into a flare. Pick a shoulder to lead with and go for it, its very strenuous, slightly dirty, and very awkward. At the top of the chimney flare exit using the crack to the left. A very needed rest welcomes you here before the bolt protected lieback crux, great handholds with no feet here, but you'll hit a ledge soon. Above this bolt I saw a lot of loose blocks but it's not hard to avoid them. The anchors are pretty high, and there isn't much hard climbing getting to them. A 70M rope only reaches on rappel with all gear clean and no knots in the rope!


Between Juniper Face and the Reason to Be Arete, look for the chimney and a bolt low down.


Lots of slings! especially for the top. lots of yellow to red Metolius are nice, and a #3 Camalot size was nice for pulling the roof. A sling might be nicer than harness racking on this one.

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