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A Tale of Two Sheep T 
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Chest Full of Kind T 
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Cockometer T 
Desire T 
Expendables 1 T 
Expendables 2 T 
First Blood T 
Fix Your Tips T,TR 
Fuzz T 
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Good Times T 
Grindhouse T 
Host, The T 
Hostess, The T 
Inhabitants, The T 
Layaway Plan T 
Layoff plan TR 
Monk, The T 
Ninja in the Shadows T 
Renegades of Funk T 
Rochambeau T 
Serrator Crack T 
Slice and Dice T 
Unnamed T 
Way Nutter T 
Way Rambo T 
Wishbone Suspension T 


YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Season: spring/fall
Page Views: 3,380
Submitted By: Gavin Ferguson on May 30, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (50)
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Short, sweet and wide!

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


Desire is an offset OW that lends itself to your left side in. You can get a couple of good rests out right of the crack with your feet. Near the top you enter a large cavity and chimney up to where the anchors are located. There is a loose looking hold I "didn't grab" to pull onto the slab to clip the chains.


Desire is located a short distance to the right of "Layaway Plan" and to the left of "Slice and Dice". You can see the anchors up on the slab to the right of the crack.


3=#5 friends, 3=#6 friends; There are two biners on the anchor to clip

Photos of Desire Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Unstuck Knee
Unstuck Knee
Rock Climbing Photo: kubes on Desire
kubes on Desire
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the chimney top out of "Desire"
Nearing the chimney top out of "Desire"
Rock Climbing Photo: Found at the base in '04...   (A 5.10 named Desire...
Found at the base in '04... (A 5.10 named Desire...
Rock Climbing Photo: Desire 5.10 OW
Desire 5.10 OW

Comments on Desire Add Comment
Show which comments
By James Beissel
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 26, 2006

This is a great route to practice hand/fist stacking technique.

Once you get up about 15' the crack becomes wide enough to get your knee in. The first 10' are really the crux #4 (purple) Camalot. After that it is #4.5 (red) Camalot or #5 C4. Cruiser! Two are enough if you walk them, three would be perfect and four would probably be overkill. Bring a #2 Camalot to protect the final chimney moves to the anchor.
By JoergB
From: Germany
Oct 14, 2009

Really nice training offwidth. The knee is good jamming nearly all the time, hand-fist stack and arm bar work both. Difficult is only the steeper lower part, when this ends it becomes easy. One #5 was enough for me, more gear just gets in the way.
By Jamie Henrichsen
From: Lake Morena, CA
Apr 23, 2012

Rock Climbing Photo: Knee stuck in "Desire"
Knee stuck in "Desire"

I got my knee stuck pretty good after the pod. My pants bunched up around the knee and I cut the pants into shorts to get loose. Good hand-fist stacks and cupped out butterflies for me. Pretty tight for a knee crack on me though.
By Josh Ewing
From: Bluff, UT
Sep 30, 2012

One of the better "beginner OWs" at the Creek. 3-4 pieces in the "new 5 camalot" range and maybe one larger piece (new 6 or old 5) should be enough. Can be TR'd after rapping off of Layaway Plan.
By CanDillo
From: The Great State -Colorado
Sep 15, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Super solid stacks for 70 ft. 1-#4 and 3-#5's did it for me. Once you could use a C4 #6 , it was not even worth placing.
By Mark van Eijk
Mar 23, 2015

Had some trouble navigating the top of this route. After pulling through the initial steepness on excellent knees and stacking the crack on the left opens up into what looks like an unprotectable chimney. Stepping up and rocking in is committing, but it's both easily climbable with excellent feet and protectable with a #5 or 6 in there. Easy climbing with no chimney technique necessary takes you to the chains on the upper slab. Good fun!

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