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Sulphur Canyon Area
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Desert Guardian 

Desert Guardian 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C2 R

   
Type:  Aid, 2 pitches, 220', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C2 R [details]
FA: Ben Folsom & Maura Hahnenberger Oct. 28th 2007
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 65
Submitted By: Ben Folsom on Oct 29, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Desert Guardian from the turnoff into Sulphur Cany...

Description 

Pitch 1- Start on the SW corner of the tower and climb the obvious chimney with chockstones in the back of it to a two bolt belay on a nice ledge. 5.8R 90 feet.
(You can also avoid the chimney by 4th class scrambling to the right of the chimney up a very loose gully system, but the chimney is good).

Pitch 2- Move the belay up to a nice, sandy, flat area in the middle of group of summits. Face west and climb a 5.9+ crack to a ledge. Look left and clip a bolt. 5.10 face climbing left and up leads to another bolt. An aid move leads to one more bolt, then C2 climbing leads to 5.8 climbing to gain a ledge below the summit pinnacle. 5.8+ R climbing leads to a two bolt belay at the summit. There is a summit register under some rocks on the top.
To Descend, rappel the route.

Location 

From the turnoff to Sulphur Canyon the tower is visible to the north. From the turnoff drive 3/4 of a mile and park at a nice camping spot just west of the tower. From the parking area walk up the talus directly towards the tower.

Protection 

2 sets of camming units from very small to a #4 camalot size. Stoppers come in handy as well.


Photos of Desert Guardian Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Maura Hahnenberger on the summit of Desert Guardia...
Maura Hahnenberger on the summit of Desert Guardia...
Rock Climbing Photo: Maura Hahnenberger coming up the first pitch chimn...
Maura Hahnenberger coming up the first pitch chimn...
Rock Climbing Photo: On the second pitch of Desert Guardian on the firs...
On the second pitch of Desert Guardian on the firs...
Rock Climbing Photo: Desert Guardian-  Pitch one follows the obvious ch...
BETA PHOTO: Desert Guardian- Pitch one follows the obvious ch...

Comments on Desert Guardian Add Comment
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By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 29, 2007

How did I miss you? I was there Saturday...
By Ben Folsom
Oct 29, 2007

John,

We arrived Saturday evening after a day of climbing slabs on the San Rafael Reef. Then we climbed it on Sunday.

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