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Desert Dreaming 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
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Submitted By: dmPete on Oct 20, 2014

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Pete taking the "left" version on Desert...

Description 

Super fun route! The first half is 5.9 climbing through a satisfying dihedral onto a ledge. The second half is face climbing over (or around) an overhang onto a sparse face with small holds.

A bit contrived near the top, as there is an alternate, 5.9 version that heads right and skirts the crux. Heading entirely left past the last two bolts seems a bit harder than 10d, however.

Protection 

Quickdraws and cams. Smaller cams for lower section, 2" and 3" cams will be useful near the top of the route. Bolted anchors.

Location 

About 100 feet left of "Wind Dummy"/"Tidewater." Look for a vertical red face split by three cracks that intersect to make an asterisk just above a scooped out roof.


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By dmPete
Oct 10, 2014

Near the top, staying left, I ended up stuck using a left heel-hook, left fist jam (next to a gear placement) and a desperate move to find a single good right hand above...unique and fun, but kind of nervy.

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