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Desert Devil 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: someradguythatmostlikelyworetights
Season: fall winter spring
Page Views: 3,370
Submitted By: ldsclimber on Sep 23, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Desert Devil Topo.

Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area MORE INFO >>>


one long V4


up the middle of steepest wall at the pond


chain draws

Photos of Desert Devil Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Ryan Chamberlain.
Photo by Ryan Chamberlain.
Rock Climbing Photo: Desert Devil on a winter afternoon.
Desert Devil on a winter afternoon.
Rock Climbing Photo: Taking a little air off of Desert Devil.   Photo C...
Taking a little air off of Desert Devil. Photo C...
Rock Climbing Photo: Desert Devil Side View.
Desert Devil Side View.
Rock Climbing Photo: Shredding the skin while slaying the steeps!
Shredding the skin while slaying the steeps!
Rock Climbing Photo: Between the 3rd and 4th bolt on Desert Devil.  Pho...
Between the 3rd and 4th bolt on Desert Devil. Pho...
Rock Climbing Photo: I forgot that this route was never on my warm up c...
I forgot that this route was never on my warm up c...
Rock Climbing Photo: hmmm...pff...ugh...agh...huhhhh....AGH!!! TAKE!!!
hmmm...pff...ugh...agh...huhhhh....AGH!!! TAKE!!!
Rock Climbing Photo: questioning why I'm pumped;)
questioning why I'm pumped;)
Rock Climbing Photo: i thought it be a good idea to warm up on this:)
i thought it be a good idea to warm up on this:)
Rock Climbing Photo: up in the mornin' fo the risen sun!! Im gonna send...
up in the mornin' fo the risen sun!! Im gonna send...

Comments on Desert Devil Add Comment
Show which comments
By RyanJames
Oct 29, 2010

This route goes right up the center of one of the coolest looking walls at the Pond Area. No move harder than V4, yet absolutely no rest.
By BenClimbing
Dec 21, 2010

This route definitely has some of the best and most consistent movement on any QC route. It has cleaned up nicely over the years. It would definitely deserve 4 stars if it weren't for the drilled pockets. Of course, if it weren't for those pockets, it probably wouldn't deserve four stars. Whould it even be possible? I guess we will never know.
By Chris Bastek
Jan 8, 2011

All the ticks that were added this week made this route seem a lot easier! Especially the two foot long one showing the way to the obvious clipping hold below the second to last bolt! NOT! Super lame! Please clean your ticks or better yet just stay inside and follow the tape.
By Peter Franzen
General Admin
From: Phoenix, AZ
Nov 26, 2011

Pretty fun, with consistent difficulty all the way up. It's a shame it has been comfortized and drilled out though.

And thanks to the person who equipped this with nice shiny new chain draws!
By Pat Mac
From: Tempe
Jan 30, 2012
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Sent last weekend. Felt easy.

here is my beta.

By climb2core
Jun 20, 2013

FA was Craig Keaty circa 1994? He also did many of the lines around the Pond including Pocket Puzzle, Out on Parole, Emerald City, and Death Row. And he gave me some his tights back in the day. He was actually my climbing mentor I belayed him many a time on DD before he sent. It was way over my head back then. I knew that he had glued/reinforced it but he never mentioned the drilling. I haven't spoke to him in ages, but I would be curious to see what he has to say about it.
By Justin Turner
From: Cave Creek, AZ
Feb 26, 2016

As an FYI for anyone who has worked or is working the route, on about 2/7/16 someone broke the first left hand hold after the 4th bolt. It was a shallow pocket (what some might call the first move of the lower crux) and is now a much more positive (and felt bigger too) two-finger. Definitely makes the move feel easier. Not a grade-changing hold break but a noticeable one for that section. For those trying to send, you now have a slightly better chance. :-)
By Pablo-Roberts
From: Prescott, Arizona
Feb 11, 2017

Whats the deal with this thing missing 3 of its carabiners on the fixed draws?
By Jared LaVacque
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
Feb 22, 2017
rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

Desert Devil isn't missing carabiners on the fixed draws. Emerald and the project to it's left have old runners that are missing the lower biner. Desert Devil has chain perma draws with biners.

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