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Des ires et des espoirs 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Éric Tremblay, summer 2014
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 29
Submitted By: Luc-514 on Apr 29, 2015

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The dihedral to the right of Fougère (5.9) leads to a wide ledge. The dihedral continues (Camalot #1 important) and leads to an imposing roof, for a photo finish on a technical arete (bolts).

Le dièdre à droite de Fougère (5.9) dirige à une grande vire. Le dièdre continue (Camalot #1 important) et mène à l’imposant toit, pour la finale sur l’arète technique (plaquettes).


Standard rack

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By Luc-514
From: Montreal, Quebec
Apr 29, 2015

Keep the .3 or .4 (or both) for protection under the roof. Avoid protecting in the unstable block at the intersection of dihedral and roof. It’s unstable but we were unable to remove it.

Garder le .3 ou le .4 (ou les deux) pour protection sous le toit. Éviter de protéger dans le bloc instable à la jonction du dièdre et du toit. Il est instable mais impossible de le faire tomber.

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