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YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Luebben and Harper, '94
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 46
Submitted By: Skip Harper on Oct 14, 2014

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


Dermatome: a surgical instrument designed specifically to remove thin slices of skin. Get the idea?

Tape up well for this one as it has feldspar scalpels embedded inside. Beginning just left of the large alcove, and jam up to the point where the crack splits in two. Continuing straight up will treat you to a couple of possible setbacks, 2 small roofs and further up, a hairy jog to the left into a flaring pod leading to the rounded top of a large block (10c). If you go right, you are in for a gradually widening crack going from hands to fists and stacks to arm bars or a chicken wing or two, ending on top of the large block (10b). If you choose, belay here on gear or continue to the top and again, belay on gear.

The descent is by downclimbing the backside of the spire.


The obvious start is just right of the Sky Shot Alcove, Number 2 on the Skyshot topo.


Take a few small pieces, but double up on medium to large cams (from #3 to #4.5 Camalots or equivalent).

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