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Westworld Dome
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Warpaint T 

Deranged Skwinkle/ Buckeroo 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A0 PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 5 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A0 PG13 [details]
FA: Johnny Burrito and The gang
Season: When the eye of Sauron is not watching
Page Views: 953
Submitted By: Dj telle on Nov 5, 2014

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Westworld from the parking area

Description 

Apparently has been climbed so just look at picture.

Climb up bulge that leads to big chickenheads and follow the arching crack. (.9+)

Move up and right following cracks and chickenheads to ledge w tree (.8)

Climb challenging and aesthetic face with committing moves up small chickenheads leading to a bolt 20ft up (.10 / A0)

Long low angle slab that leads to the summit.

Protection 

2 ropes
small to # 3 cam

Rap from anchors at top of dome


Photos of Deranged Skwinkle/ Buckeroo Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: .
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Rock Climbing Photo: 3rd pitch moves up and right
3rd pitch moves up and right

Comments on Deranged Skwinkle/ Buckeroo Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ethan S.
Nov 5, 2014

God damn eroders.
By Person1
Mar 17, 2016

For clarity and accuracy---Deranged Skwinkle consists of 2 pitches and 3 other pitches climbed years prior.

Pitch 1 was climbed in 2015.
Pitch 2 was climbed in 2009.
Pitch 3 was climbed in 2015.
Pitch 4 was climbed in 1991, (named Buckeroo) it has not yet been freed on lead so it is 5.9 A0, not 5.10.
Pitch 5 climbed in late 1980's, not really a pitch but a 15ft chim to 3rd class slab.
By Person1
Sep 10, 2016

As of today Buckaroo/Buckeroo has not yet been climbed on lead without aid.
Second ascent party leader pulled on bolt.
Second ascent party rated it 5.10 since at least one of the followers
did the moves free at 5.10. Still an aid route with the A0 move.
Rating should reflect the aid (not the free moves that have not yet been freed on lead).
Perhaps an MP administrator will fix the rating inaccuracy.

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