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JJ Memorial 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,090
Submitted By: SM Ryan on Oct 16, 2012

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It looks like this one is missing from the line-up on MP.

This climb starts out of the pit on a large lay-backish hold. Requires burly pulling and a heel-toe gimmick may help in this section. After the roof section, the head wall has some smaller crimps/feet.


Starts on the left side of the pit



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By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Oct 16, 2012
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

That might clear up some confusion here about grades. This start is much harder than Wicked Bender.
By bheller
From: SL UT
Apr 10, 2013
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

This route is named The JJ memorial- no "derailed" exists on this wall.

I spoke with the developer of this wall today. He informed me of some mis-information here on MP. This route is called The JJ memorial- It was named in honor of a friend who worked at a climbing gym in park city and died tragically. JJ loved climbing at the dry wall.

JJ Memorial is a more direct start that shares its left-trending finish with Wicked Bender.

The start is a tricky move (V6/5) that uses a high right-facing sidepull (good hold) above a sandstone shelf within the cave. Technical climbing, great sequences, and hard pulls on shallow pockets characterize this great route. Feels like multiple boulder problems (V5/4) with a couple of marginal shakes. The lower section is a little sandy, but the orange stone at the top is beautiful- the climbing and the rock color remind me of the Churning Buttress routes at Smith Rock. High tech kneebar action seems to be the ticket (for some) with the boulder problem off the ground.
By SM Ryan
Jul 18, 2013

Who is the FA then?
By Kipp Schorr
Jun 22, 2015
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

A hold crumbled (surprise) lower on the route, just before the rightward traverse into the big two finger and jug (just below where you join Wicked Bender. If it wasn't 13b before, it is now. Just a tad bit harder and a little less pleasant.
By lech
Aug 25, 2016
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

I had been told this route became very difficult for folks under 5 ft 10 in and wanted to state it can be done at V6 at least for those 5 ft 7 in and above. I mention this because I had avoided this route for that reason and wanted to let others know they can get on it.

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