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Der Stihl 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Mike Pont
Page Views: 136
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Nov 15, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

Der Stihl is the "trade route" 5.13 on the Bauhaus Wall and has cleaned up a lot since the first ascent in 1992. Nevertheless, the finishing headwall tends to run with water and silt every spring and thus needs a careful brushing at the start of the summer season. Be prepared!

This is the second route from the right on Bauhaus Wall and often has quickdraws on it (the rightmost route is "Der Squeal", 13a, which climbs up overhanging white rock into a roof with a poised dagger). It can also be recognized by a vertical plaque with deep pockets at the start leading to very steep white rock and a twin set of grey streaks with a pod/crack between them.

Climb up the easy vertical face and engage with the overhang. An early, bouldery crux on painfully incut underclings and tiny crimps leads to better holds. Stay left (early ascents stayed right, which is more difficult) until you hit very bulging rock beneath the capping roof. A locker kneebar here allows you to bleed it back for a final, overhanging crux.

While one climber lowered off from the jug above this crux and still claimed an "ascent," the route still has about 5-6 bolts worth of awesome, vertical 5.12 climbing on nice dark rock. Technical moves and route-finding decisions comprise this engaging, airy headwall.

Protection 

Many, many quickdraws (16-18) and a 60 meter cord (obligatory).


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By Anonymous Coward
Nov 16, 2001

I seem to remember a drilled pocket after the low crux but before the knee bar...maybe a right hand, although I will admit it has been about 5 or 6 years since I have done the route.
By Blake Cash
From: Chattanooga, TN
Apr 7, 2010

I heard something broke on this, making it significantly harder than its original grade.
By Neely Q
Jun 16, 2010

Does anyone know if this route has any super long, deal-breaker moves for someone who's 5 feet?
By Jeremy H
Jun 18, 2010
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

I haven't done this one in a few years, but I don't remember anything that would be a deal breaker for someone five feet tall. There are some moves that will definitely be harder, but I don't think there is anything ridiculous. Two boulder problems separated by a good rest (knee bar) then a good rest before you climb the slightly overhanging headwall. Everyone says the headwall is 12-, but I don't agree. I think it is more like 12+.
By D-Storm
Nov 1, 2010

I agree, Jeremy, that the headwall checks in around 12c. On that note, does anyone know the name of the new start, which traverses in from Der Squeal? It's equipped with cable draws and meets up with Der Stihl at the rest below the roof crux. It's good climbing and seems about 13a to the rest above the roof.
By Jeremy H
Nov 6, 2010
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

It is called Squeal to Stihl, 13b, put up by Dave Pegg this summer after a crucial hold in the first crux up Der Stihl broke making it harder and not as much fun. I have heard that Squeal to Stihl is pretty good.
By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Dec 12, 2013

Mia Axon made the first female ascent of Der Stihl in August 1994, making her the fourth American woman to redpoint 5.13c, behind Lynn Hill, Robyn Ebersfield, and Bobbi Bensman.

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