REI Community
Coney Island
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angry Dragon 
Another Way T 
Badger Traverse, The S 
Bait, The T,S 
Dampened Enthusiasm S 
Der Letzte Zug S 
Die Reeperbahn S 
Feeding the Beast S 
Fly Swatter S 
Fly Trap S 
Gagger S 
Gagger With A Bone S 
Give the Dog a Bone S 
Joy Ride S 
Lucky Strikes Again S 
New Fanatic S 
Pri-Moe T,S 
Prong S 
Quintet T 
Red Badger S 
Runaway S 
Twist and Shout S 
Work It On Out S 
Unsorted Routes:

Der Letzte Zug 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jessie Guthrie, 1990
Page Views: 3,732
Submitted By: Joe Collins on Jun 7, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Jerry Moffatt on Der Letzte Zug.

  • Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    The name is German for "The Last Course". This is a decent sport route on the upper tier of Coney Island Crag. It is the line immediately right of Joy Ride, and left of the 13b face/arete.

    Make tricky moves up to the high first bolt, then move up under the roof and get ready for the crux. The crux is a difficult 3-4 move boulder problem getting past the 2nd bolt. Get a good rest after this then continue on sustained, pumpy 12- to the anchors. For reference, this route is WAY more difficult than Joy Ride, though only a letter grade harder... definitely recommended for those who whine about soft BoCan ratings.

    Protection 

    6 or 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.


    Comments on Der Letzte Zug Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Jesse Guthrie
    From: Prague Czech Republic
    Jul 12, 2005

    Actually the name is German for "The last pull" or "the last toke" amongst other meanings...Jesse.
    By EJM
    Mar 8, 2010
    rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

    I think this is one of the finest sport routes in Boulder Canyon, definitely my favorite for the grade...not trivial.
    By pefue
    From: Erlangen, Germany
    Dec 17, 2010

    "The last pull" is the correct translation.
    By Mark Wiranowski
    Mar 29, 2012

    On 3/28/12, the bolt on the crux clip (above the bottom roof) was loose. I finger-tightened but didn't have a wrench. There is also a rapid link on that bolt for bailing.
    By Curt MacNeill
    From: Boulder, CO
    Dec 3, 2012

    This route is mega classic and will give you a beatdown at the crux. Getting an onsight would give you instant street cred, and if you're one of those people who complain about BOCO being soft, I think this route will change your opinion. I have done many 5.13s that didn't have as hard of a boulder problem crux as this route. Very delicate feet with horrible, sloping crimps just over the roof, including a right handed crux sidepull. If you do this route when it's warm and sunny, give yourself a few extra letter grades for the send. I have found this route to be nearly impossible if it's over 60 degrees. Cold Cloudy conditions will make it easier....
    By doug rouse
    From: Denver, CO.
    Apr 1, 2014

    The Last Train is the proper translation FWIW. German neighbor.
    By Dan Hickstein
    Sep 15, 2015
    rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

    This is a nice TR after climbing Joy Ride. The climbing after the crux is great and maybe 11+. However, the crux (pulling over the roof and the next few moves) seemed absolutely desperate. Did some holds break? The right of the two crimps looked as if there could have been some recent breakage. To me, it seemed like there was no way that it was only 5.12, but maybe I'm just baffled by another weird Boulder Canyon crux. Anyway, it's a fun TR if you skip those crux moves. Several of the bolts were spinning, so we tightened them up with a small wrench.
    By lenore sparks
    From: Denver, Colorado
    Sep 5, 2016

    Actually, Zug, in German/Austrian/Swiss climbing slang means "Move". The other literal translation of this word is Train. So if a German climber saw this, they would say this meant "the last move."
    By Mike McKinnon
    From: Golden, CO
    Nov 28, 2016

    As with the previous poster, I don't think this is 12c anymore. Much harder than anything on Lucid Dreaming, Anarchitect, Twitch, Mighty Dog all 12c and/or 12d. Hell that first move was harder than anything on Milkbone, Ultrasaurus, and Snake Watching, all 13as.
    By Mr. Stevens
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 3, 2017
    rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

    After doing this route last spring and then doing lots of other similarly graded routes over the past year, I agree that this is a total sandbag at 12c. Compared to something like Hands of Destiny, which is a similar style, I would say this is definitely a letter grade harder than that.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About