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A Wing and a Prayer S,TR 
All I Wanted was a Pepsi T 
Battle of the Bulge S 
By Gully T,S 
Deprived Child T,S 
Deprived Direct T 
Direct Shock S 
Dust Bowl Daze T 
Frictionary T,S 
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Trad and True T 
Winter Solstice T 

Deprived Child 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Dave Whalen, Darrell Jordan - 1986
Page Views: 2,385
Submitted By: saxfiend on Dec 7, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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BETA PHOTO: Bolts are about a foot right of the rope. Direct s...

Description 

A really nice line for the (slightly sandbagged) grade, with a spicy alternate start.

Move up and left on the slab to a gap in the overlap above. Though it's fairly easy climbing, this start is runout with no pro until you reach a bolt below the overlap maybe 30' up. Continue up on good friction following the bolted line to the top.

Direct start (5.10a): Climb left of the regular start to join the route just below the first bolt. No protection.

Location 

Starts about 15' right of All I Wanted was a Pepsi.

Protection 

Mixed; five bolts supplemented by a light rack. Bolted anchors at the top.


Photos of Deprived Child Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Halfway up.  My first free solo
Halfway up. My first free solo
Rock Climbing Photo: the direct start. believe and you will stick
the direct start. believe and you will stick

Comments on Deprived Child Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 27, 2017
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Jan 7, 2008

Fun lead, very much worth doing.
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jul 1, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Not really PG13. Start from the flake, placing gear under the flake in the cracks. Takes C3's nicely. Probably a little harder than 5.6 only using the flake.
By JohnWesely
From: Red River Gorge
Sep 30, 2011

Where does the direct route start? I tried doing it at the obvious place, almost directly beneath the first bolt on the face, and found it to be almost impossible before breaking a hold.
By andjoely
From: Menlo Park, CA
Oct 5, 2011

The direct start (or at least the one I always do) is a cool little boulder problem that starts above the sketchy landing where the rock sticks out just left of a highly eroded area. I would estimate the grade of this start to be about 11b, though the sketchy landing and warm weather can make it feel even harder.
By Will Rynes
From: Grovetown, GA
Jun 2, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fun little route, really straight forward with no shortage of hands or feet the whole way. The direct start was pretty cool with a highstep mantle move down low and nice sloper above that.
By Nathan Burns
From: Dahlonega, GA
Nov 5, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

Fun lead... 1st bolt was high off the deck, the rest were pretty spaced out (which made things more fun). Bomber #1 camalot under the flake protects between bolt 1 and 2. Some of the moves up high are pretty spicy!
By Mark O'Neal
From: Nicholson, GA
Jan 1, 2014

I had an epiphany on the direct start. It's a 10b move on a cold high friction day wearing Miura's. It's an 11a move on a sunny greasy friction day wearing Mytho's.
By Will Carney
From: Tallulah Falls, GA
Aug 28, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

I agree with O'Neal. The direct move is all about the friction. This is a great route for first timers as it is easily top roped, is low difficulty, and has the reward of topping out with a beautiful view. If you're protecting in the flake, you're in wrong spot. You should be in a spot where you're wondering how you're going to get off the ground at all. And it's good stretch of slab to the first bolt.
By Jeff Mekolites
From: ATL GA
Jun 10, 2016

Rap anchors have been replaced. Thanks to the SCC for the hardware.
By Mitch Redford
Jan 10, 2017

Does this route traverse under the flake to the first bolt or go up and left over the slab to the first bolt?
By Alex Hartson
Feb 27, 2017

This Sunday (02/26/17) we did a lead run up Mickeys, a second top rope of Pepsi and at lunch we moved top rope over to Deprived. When webbing anchors, we saw fresh paint "NOT SAFE"with arrows pointing at both Deprived Child bolts. We checked over the bolts and they are still like new condition from last years upgrade. We setup a third sling to the tree 15 ft away and watched the bolts during an abseil and saw no issues. We had just topped this route last Wednesday and the paint wasn't there - we just wanted to post an FYI to anyone that sees it and freaks out. No responsible climber would spray paint and graffiti is all over this mountain and the rangers were training there Sunday also and advised they would clean it. We will bring cleaning setup with us next time to clear it if it's still there

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