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Demon's Delight 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Barry & Hitchcock - 1978
Page Views: 2,933
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Sep 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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3rd pitch crux.. underclinging tips crack

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


Demon's Delight is a fantastic outing that doesn't appear to receive much attention, but certainly deserves it. If you're looking for four pitches of sustained and interesting climbing, and trying to avoid crowds, go for it.

The climb takes a traversing line up a large left facing corner/roof system on Shultz's Ridge. Scramble up some 4th/low 5th class ground to a perch in a tree.

P1: Ascend the steep left-facing corner via a hand crack, then jam and undercling out a roof and up to a stance for a belay. 5.10.

P2: Bust left out the roof on positive jams and small feet and perform a very powerful lieback move to get around the corner. Continue up to an ill-defined site for a hanging belay. 5.11a.

P3: Continue a short ways up the corner, then begin a long leftwards traverse. Pass a quartzite band with difficult pro but good holds, rest, and then continue out the roof on very thin underclings and feet. Save small cams for this stretch, and marshall your gear in general on this long pitch. Belay just around the corner at bolts. 5.11a.

P4: Head up the thin corner with tricky gear to an obvious mantle crux (hint: there is a very inobvious way to solve this that utilizes an undercling if you, like me, can't make the mantle work). Continue up a thin flake via jams and stems to a bolted belay. This last stretch has pretty poor pro and some questionable rock. 5.11a.

Descent: One nice feature of this route is that you only need to carry one rope on the climb: Leave your second rope at the base and have one person single-line rap to the ground from the top anchor. This person can then tie the ropes together and the last person down can pull the rope up and do one 60m rap to the ground.


Two each from TCU's to hands, one each 3 and 4 inch pieces. Small wires.

Photos of Demon's Delight Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: lots of liebacking
lots of liebacking
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting pitch 3: climber is in the crystal band a...
Starting pitch 3: climber is in the crystal band a...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1 - the only one in good shade.
Pitch 1 - the only one in good shade.
Rock Climbing Photo: Low Rez Topo.
BETA PHOTO: Low Rez Topo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve B nearing the top of the 2nd pitch
Steve B nearing the top of the 2nd pitch

Comments on Demon's Delight Add Comment
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By Rob Dillon
Sep 21, 2009

If one were to bring, say, 4x #1 Camalots along, one would have both pro for the second pitch and for the anchor at its top. Without this things get a little scrappy, especially since the belay is pretty much fully hanging.
By Mark K
Sep 26, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Super fun and unique climbing. Don't let the mantle scare you, it's well protected and not too bad. Good climb to avoid the crowds.
By Chris I
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 12, 2014

Outstanding route, especially if you like underclinging and laybacking! 4x #1 camalot was good beta. As of now there is a fixed nut just below the mantle crux which was nice. I probably whipped on it more than a dozen times trying to figure out that move. I'm very interested in the secret undercling beta for the last pitch mantle because I couldn't make it happen. All cruxes have good gear. I would go as small as 2x purple metolius on my rack, otherwise the rack beta is spot on.
By Vlad S
Feb 17, 2015

Single 70 m rope is plenty to rap the route, no need for a 2nd rope. The last two stations are equipped for rapelling, but bring webbing to reinforce the last rap as they are a bit vintage. I thought the 2nd pitch was the hardest - thin hand jams or undercling in a glassy crack with very poor feet. That was pumpy! The mantle can be done 2 ways depending on how tall you are. Easier for shorter folks as you can get a good left foot 2 inches below the mantle ledge. For medium size people undercling right and press out hard with the left while smearing your left foot and bring the right foot up to the ledge. Once you do the mantle it's still not over until your are standing on the next ledge! Surprisingly tiring route for only 4 pitches, but dearth of footholds on all pitches makes you work a bit harder.
By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Feb 17, 2015

It is a tough route for 4 pitches and short ones at that. Agree about the 2nd being the overall crux. But interesting... the way I did the mantle, I figure it's easier for taller/greater wingspan people. But nice undercling beta.. look forward to trying it. Fixed nut is still there and still catching whippers :)
By Michael Dom
From: Seattle
Oct 28, 2016

I had so much fun doing this route. There isn't really a downside, I guess a couple hanging belays. Even those aren't that bad. Bring all of the 1s you have haha.
By Bababata
From: Oakland, CA
Apr 17, 2017
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

A very cool and unique route! The gear below the mantel crux felt tricky to me (the PG13 rating seems justified). A blue alien fits well (if you can find the right spot) and takes sizable whippers (tested it)... There is no fixed wire below the mantel any more.

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