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Devil's Gate
Routes Sorted
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Burning Cauldon, The S 
Dammit Samet S 
Demon Semen T 
Demons & Wizards S 
Devil Dog S 
Devil's Corner T 
Devil's Cupcake T 
Devil's Duodenum, The T 
Devil's Gate 2 S 
Devil's Own Stone, The S 
Devil's Vista S 
Deviled Eggs S 
Hell's Heartbreaker S 
Runnin' With the Devil S 
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Unknown Sport Route - Back Corridor S 
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Unknown Sport Route on Prow - Right S 

Demons & Wizards 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Tod Anderson
Page Views: 170
Submitted By: Mr. Stevens on Sep 3, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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The route goes straight up the center of the photo...

Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start with some fierce crimping for the first four bolts. This is the crux section of the route and flows really well if you get the right sequence. From the fourth bolt, do a fun, slam-dunk move to the downward pointing flake. The moves from the fourth to seventh bolts are steep and fun! The second half of the route essentially climbs the arete of the 5.10a route to the left, but you'll clip separate bolts. I'm sure you could stay on the face and follow the bolt line directly.... Regardless, the first half of this route is quite fun, but I feel it loses stars because of the contrived nature of the upper section.

Location 

It is immediately right of Devil's Gate 2 (5.10a).

Protection 

The guide said 12 bolts, but I think it only took 11....

This shares anchor with Devil's Gate 2 (5.10a) but does NOT share any bolts.


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