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Happy Hour Crag
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Cheers aka Thrill of the Chaise T,TR 
Cruel Shoes TR 
Dementia T,TR 
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Grins T,TR 
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I, Robot T,TR 
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YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Chris Scanlon and Dave Rice, c. 1974.
Page Views: 15,390
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (199)
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DC finding the right piece to head into the roof/c...

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  • Description 

    Begin beneath the obvious left leaning V- slot roof near the middle of the crag. An awkward mantle brings you into the short but technical crux - the narrow V-slot with a thin fingers crack. Good smears and bomber fingerlocks through the crux. Solid 10a.


    Small nuts and cams up to #1 Camalot. Small cams for the business. A traverse out the top leads to chain anchors. Long runners to avoid rope drag if toproping.

    Photos of Dementia Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Michael with an interesting solution to the crux.
    Michael with an interesting solution to the crux.
    Rock Climbing Photo: 7. Last Call, 9+. 8. Dementia, 10a. 9. Malign, 7. ...
    BETA PHOTO: 7. Last Call, 9+. 8. Dementia, 10a. 9. Malign, 7. ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ross, finding the crux.
    Ross, finding the crux.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Moving into the crux! I didn't stem across to the ...
    Moving into the crux! I didn't stem across to the ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin in the good part.
    Kevin in the good part.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Angus McLean bridging the crux of Dementia.
    Angus McLean bridging the crux of Dementia.
    Rock Climbing Photo: If you can stem to this left foot hold, it's almos...
    If you can stem to this left foot hold, it's almos...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The early stages of Dementia.
    The early stages of Dementia.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Marga Powell at the crux.  Small cams provide good...
    Marga Powell at the crux. Small cams provide good...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Marga Powell laybacking the first hard moves on De...
    Marga Powell laybacking the first hard moves on De...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Laurent is about to enter the fun part.
    Laurent is about to enter the fun part.
    Rock Climbing Photo: August 10, 2002.
    August 10, 2002.

    Comments on Dementia Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 7, 2017
    By Mark Ferguson
    Jun 28, 2001

    Solid 10a through the crux and a fantastic climb. Two bombproof palcements through the crux (a blue and yellow TCU) inspires much confidence. Probably the best route at Happy Hour for its grade.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Aug 13, 2001

    That's funny, Mark! Isn't this the ONLY 5.10 at Happy Hour?? OK, I guess Cheers is 10a too. But I count only 2 5.10's!
    By Jeff Lockyer
    From: Canmore, AB
    Nov 14, 2001

    A very impressive route and a solid 10a for sure. Nuts protect the crux as well as TCU's so pop em' in there and crank. A really good character building lead for the ambitious 5.10 leaders in the group, I would say the best route at Happy Hour and a very stiff lead, enjoyed it a lot ! 5 stars on a 3 star rating.
    By Anthony Everhart
    Feb 4, 2003

    It is a good climb, a fun climb, but there are harder 5.9s in the canyon.
    By Hayden Yurkanis
    Sep 25, 2003

    This route is not as good as the hype...pretty much a ledge walk all the way up the thing. One hard move at the top of the flared grove and it's over. A good first 10 lead.
    By Ron Olsen
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 25, 2003
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    One of the best routes at Happy Hour. Interesting, sustained climbing from bottom to top. The difficulty of the crux is height-dependent: I'm tall enough (6' 1") to be able to do it with a wide stem, but shorter climbers have to do a harder sequence. For me, the crux is more like 5.9 than 5.10a, but I have seen shorter climbers who can do other Boulder Canyon 5.9s struggle with the crux. For sure, Dementia is easier than Cosmosis, so perhaps the 10a rating is a bit inflated.

    Easier than Cosmosis, and easier if you're tall.
    By Jeff Sallen
    From: San Diego
    Nov 11, 2003
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    I felt that this route was very true to its grade. I have lead many bolted 10s and 11s, however this was my first ever 5.10 trad lead. I enjoyed the route very much. The slightly overhanging open book is killer, and the finger locks are bomber. For future climbers who are just pushing into 10s on gear, I recommend keeping your pro organized and ready to plug in, when in the open book. I chose to keep a yellow Alien in my mouth, so that I would not have to futz with finding gear on my belt. Overall, the route was killer, I had a great time, and it was even November.
    By Brian Weinstein
    Nov 12, 2003
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Delightful. The grade is right on for the crux, which is the open book slightly overhung tasty fingers bit. It's solid fingers and placements makes it the perfect first 10 lead. Way to grunt sal! There is a fixed cam just atop the crux which looks a little worn but still good. Next time, rock, paper, scissors is mine to win.
    By TBlom
    Aug 21, 2004

    I used two #2 Metolius cams at the crux. You can equilize a few nuts at the last ledge stance (medium to small I think). I remember using a #3 Metolius after the crux. I got the stem move (5'11"), You can reach way out and do a palm smear, then swing your left leg out to stem. I also found good footholds on the overhanging (right) side of the book. I onsighted this but fell on Cosmosis, I guess they're both around 10a, Cosmosis is just much more sustained. This was one of my first 10a trad leads, super cool route. Kind of like Yosemite but shorter.
    By Ernie Port
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Sep 1, 2004
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Was on the sharp end of this stellar route today, and agree with Ron and others, in that those with a long inseam (I'm 5'11") will not have to go to the top of the crack for a stem way left. This stem is a long/wide one, and is 3/4 the way up the crack, involving a short smear up the face with close to perfect finger/hand jams on great rock. The sequence above the open book is also excellent... Thoughtful, sustained moves throughout... Protects well with medium to large stoppers, small cams up to and including a #2 Camalot.
    By John Korfmacher
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    May 18, 2006

    Fun route...attempted with H. McIntyre on 5/14/06 but backed off the crux because the smallest cam I had was a 0.5 Camalot. I'd recommend red and yellow Aliens or equivalent size for the finger crack. Would have preferred to use stoppers, but I didn't think the geometry of the crack looked all that good for stopper placements. Or, maybe I'm just chicken.
    By KevinCO
    From: Loveland, CO
    Oct 15, 2006

    This route is very memorable...short but sweet! I found the smallest tricams to be perfect placements in the cruxy section.
    By Clint Locks
    From: Boulder
    Jun 16, 2007
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    You go with that pink tricam, Kevin! A man after my own heart. (There aren't many of us left. Let's form a support group!)
    From the route description:
    "...A traverse out the top leads to chain anchors. Long runners to avoid rope drag if toproping."
    I would think twice about toproping Dementia from the chains. The angles and swing potential for the climber once in the 'business' would be...interesting. If toproping it, build a solid directional after exiting the roof or, better yet, just get ya some small gear and go for it. It's remarkably safe as a lead.
    By claytown
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 23, 2007

    One of the best climbs at the crag. I'm 5'9"; the v slot isn't a problem if you chimney up with right hand in the crack, left hand flat on the wall at your back by the arete and feet smearing on the features. It's a cool section.
    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    Apr 21, 2009

    This climb is pretty strenuous going up through the V slot unless you figure out the beta better than I did. I just kinda jumped for the hold right at the roof, because I was sick of the finger locks. It was pretty sustained. One of the more "true" 5.10a's in the canyon. The gear is bomber throughout, and there is a #0.3 C4 jammed in right below what I thought was the crux.
    By Cindy Mitchell
    Oct 11, 2010

    At 6'4", my partner had no trouble stemming to a great left foothold while in the V slot. At 5'1", I obviously couldn't reach it unless I had been wearing 9" spiked heels with sticky rubber. Chimney technique is the way to go if you're on the short side like me.
    By Martin Harris
    Nov 21, 2010

    Finally lead this climb after cleaning it about 4 months ago and so glad I did. All I have to say is don't get splitter vision like me, cuz it gets way steep. Fortunately I looked around in time to get some good stemming in while placing the 0.3? before gunning it to the top.
    By Rob Davies UK
    From: Cheshire, UK
    Oct 14, 2011
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    A great line but a proper grunt.
    By A0hero
    From: Detroit, MI
    May 26, 2012

    My #2 Mastercam walked itself into oblivion in the middle of the finger crack. If you can get it out, I owe you a 6 pack. Thanks!
    By Timothy
    From: Fort Collins, Colorado
    May 28, 2012

    I tried getting your yellow Metolius out but to no avail, sorry, my friend.
    By fluff head
    Sep 29, 2012

    ^^^ I ate your yellow Metolius for breakfast!!!
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Mar 15, 2013

    I agree with Ron Olsen, it felt easier than Cosmosis.
    By Psuedoazn
    May 14, 2013
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Amazing route!

    I was climbing Dementia today and was unable to retrieve my BD #0.3 cam from the top of crux.

    If anyone frees it or finds it, I would gladly offer a 24-pack of beer of your choosing if I could get that essential piece of my rack returned. I would be so grateful!
    By Travis Provin
    From: Boulder CO
    Sep 22, 2016

    TR'd this but wouldn't do it again. The rope drops into a crack and runs over a bit of a ledge
    By Brian Carver
    From: Boulder, Co
    May 2, 2017

    I've found 2 different options to get through the crux. The one I see most people do is to do a very thin, wide stem move across the book and grab the horn with your left hand. The other is to climb the finger crack a bit higher until your left foot can stem across to that same horn. Although the finger crack option is harder, I feel it is the more quality way to climb the route and makes it one of the hardest 10a's I've ever tried. Anybody else have an opinion on this?
    By Tradgic Yogurt
    Aug 7, 2017

    There's now a nut keeping the unreachable tricam and the fixed cam company near the top of the open book. It wiggles ever so slightly but definitely wasn't coming out after our whole group TR'd the route.

    Brian, seems like each person in my group did it a bit differently. I faced right in the lower part of the book (left hand in finger crack, right hand using right arete), then turned around and did a left foot high step and cranked a really hard left sidepull to stand up on it. Definitely a power move after using both rattly fingers in the crack at various times while unclipping directionals on TR.

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