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Demanda 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Josh Smith, Gary Parker, Jason Halladay
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,386
Submitted By: Josh Smith on Mar 22, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (57)
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Fritzy cranking through the lower portion of Deman...

Description 

Has a crux down low, and then has pretty fun, rambly climbing. This route is kind of squeezed in with Pitchfork and Pale Rider, and about a third of the way up all three routes converge. Stick with the middle line if you want the climbing to stay at 5.9.

Location 

On the left end of Walt's Wall.

Protection 

12 bolts to chains


Photos of Demanda Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This place is awesome.
This place is awesome.
Rock Climbing Photo: Not sure what's up...after the 5th bolt is a sheer...
Not sure what's up...after the 5th bolt is a sheer...
Rock Climbing Photo: This route is next to the tall tree. Great place t...
This route is next to the tall tree. Great place t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Installing the bolts on Demanda, May 23, 2007. Pit...
Installing the bolts on Demanda, May 23, 2007. Pit...
Rock Climbing Photo: Past the business on Demanda.
Past the business on Demanda.

Comments on Demanda Add Comment
Show which comments
By Daniel Trugman
From: La Jolla, CA
Jun 16, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great moderate sport route with cool, varied moves and a line that just keeps going! Crux is the first twenty five feet with easier but arguably more entertaining 5.8 above.

I'm guessing a 50m rope won't work as I had less than twenty feet left in my 60m after lowering off.
By Chris Wenker
From: Santa Fe
Jun 29, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Does the anchor seem off-route, too far to the right? It seems like there's a big swing potential for any toprope followers. Or were we off-route?

My belayer was holding the halfway mark on my 60m rope exactly when I hit the anchor, so a 50 wouldn't do it.
By Daniel Trugman
From: La Jolla, CA
Jun 29, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I think the anchors were put in before the route was climbed (probably to provide a top-rope anchor for cleaning) and thus it wasn't clear at the time where the line was going. I agree that the anchors are a little off to the right but I'm not sure it's a big enough deal to warrant moving them (I presume this is the FAs line of thinking as well).
By skelldify
Nov 17, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This is a great line that is marred by horrendous bolt placement. You have to clip many of the bolts mid-sequence, and can never seem reach a bolt from any of the rests.
By Josh Smith
Nov 20, 2015

Regarding the comment from skelldify, it seems worth noting that considerable thought went into bolting this route. In the months after it went up, I received feedback from a number of people and ended up moving several bolts (and added a bolt in the middle because of runout, hence the bolts that are to close together). I climbed it again this fall to see if it still held up as a quality route a decade later, and my feeling was that it did. The anchor is a little too far off to the right for the reason Daniel cites, but that seemed minor. I suggest that a few long draws can help the leader with drag and that top ropers benefit from a few directional draws.
By Andrew B. Ellis
Aug 1, 2017
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I think this is a very, very good route with excellent movement. The clipping positions are well thought out and are placed at the right time in the movement, especially if you are climbing intelligently and not trying to high clip every bolt.

Maybe not the best route for a new 5.9 leader, especially with the crux down low and considering the heady nature of that climbing, but well protected and a great climb.

Get on this!
By Tertia Davis
Aug 9, 2017
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Cool route, in a beautiful place. However, the rating does not seem accurate.. I can consistently lead 5.9s and 5.10s, and could not clip the third bolt so asked my friends to lead it instead, all better climbers than I. The next 3 people struggled with it a lot, enough that we moved a route to the right thinking we were confused, and couldn't tell which one was more difficult. I would think the difference between a 5.9 and a 5.12 would be more obvious! One bolt is sheared off (bolt 6 I believe) leaving a frightening distance between bolts. I enjoyed the mid-section a lot, that does feel like 5.8/5.9, but there are definitely harder moves than that for the first several bolts.
By Loren Bunjes
Aug 10, 2017
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This route is rated for the easy sections. The first three bolts are pushing 5.10c. After bolt 5, it is a cruise of probably 5.8+/5.9. The last few moves to the chains are 5.10- with huge swing potential depending on where you decide to climb.
By Josh Smith
Aug 12, 2017

Based on the comment that a bolt had "sheared," I climbed the route again today. All the bolts in the middle of the route are in place. I assume the climber saw a buried stud from one of the bolts that I moved when trying to address earlier concerns and assumed it had broken. I moved the anchor about five feet to the left and moved the last bolt down and somewhat to the left, so the finish is now direct. I agree that moving the anchor makes it a better route. I think that the only weird thing now is that one bolt is slightly off to the right in the middle of the climb due to hollow rock directly on the line. But a long draw fixes that completely. Consensus grades are a fantastic feature of Mountain Project, but my 2 cents are that this route is slightly easier than Holy Wall at the Overlook, hence my 9+ assessment. However, it requires more technical climbing that counts on the friction of the rhyloite, so, that may account for the discrepancies in grading. Additionally, where the climbing is easy, the bolts are further than six feet apart.
By Andrew B. Ellis
Sep 4, 2017
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Got on this again because it is so enjoyable. I also wanted to get a second go to feel out the grade some more. (last time was near the end of the trip and I thought I might just be tired)

I agree with a few people that it is 5.10-, maybe hard 5.10a. Definitely agree with your feeling that it is a little more technical than others in the area at this difficulty, but the moves are all there.

I really like the new position of the anchors, it makes the finish flow a lot more with the rest of the route (upped my rating to 4 stars - I think this deserves a 3.5 on the average).

Thanks for your hard work, this climb is a gem!

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