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Delirium Tremens T 
Guano Roof T 

Delirium Tremens 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob Rotert & Les Ellison - 1983
Page Views: 115
Submitted By: bsmoot on Aug 22, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Big stretch!

Description 

Begin by climbing the first roof to a right facing corner. Ascend this to a belay at 2 bolts (5.10).

Pitch 2 traverses left to an overhanging section...the crux. Cams protect you here. Above the roofs, climb the 5.9 face to the top.

This is a forgotten classic.


Location 

Begin 20' right of Guano Roof

Protection 

Standard Trad rack.


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By Daniel Winder
Jun 2, 2017
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R

This is a fairly serious route, IMO. The crux of the first roof protects reasonably well but then it's a runout to get established in the right facing corner with a splat slab lurking below (perhaps this section used to have a pin or I missed something). The start of the upper crux is protected by a knifeblade of unknown vintage. Climbing the route as a single pitch seems best if rope drag can be managed. The top anchor would require more creativity or cams than I had so I traversed left to Guano Roof anchors. I started the route by traversing in from the left, but my friends toproped the direct start at poorly protectable 5.10. A good rack would be doubles from microcams to fingers and singles to 3. You can lower off with a 70. Great route!

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