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Delirium Tremens 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mark Thomas & Lance Hadfield
Page Views: 350
Submitted By: Shirtless Mike on Mar 3, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Delirium Tremens start

Description 

Devious from the ground, this one wastes no time in getting started. Use some crimps to get established to a nice hold. Make a large move to get established on an undercling. Continue up pull the final bulge and head up on easier ground.

Location 

Towards the right side of Alcohol wall. Between Happy Hour 10d and Cold Turkey 10d/11a. 2nd route from the right side of the wall. Shares final bolt and anchors with Cold Turkey.

Protection 

4 Bolts to Anchors.


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By lance hadfield
From: tijeras
Dec 20, 2011

First ascent was Mark Thomas and Lance
By Andrew B. Ellis
Aug 7, 2017
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Got on this this weekend - this is usually a grade I can solve fairly quickly, but this felt quite difficult

This thing feels much harder than 11b. The moves to get to the first clip feel 11c, and the powerful move to the undercling feels 12b(v5). The undercling is high up and at about head level when you stick it. Holding the undercling with one hand to clip is tenuous at best and quite powerful as there aren't really any good feet to get up on it where you would have a more positive grip - I couldn't make the clip safely in that position.

It only got harder from there. The space between bolts 2 and 3 is super blank for this grade. We tried for a while on lead and then also even on toprope to solve the puzzle - looks like it has to wander left of the bolt line to find the natural line between clips 2 and 3?

Feels a number grade (12b) harder to me, which left me baffled.

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