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(d) Roof Area
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American Dream S 
Balrog S 
Catch 22 S 
Critical Mass S 
Deja Vu S 
Delirious S 
Epiphany S 
False Alarm S 
Gollum S 
Hanging by a Thread S 
Leviathan S 
Nostalgia S 
Salutations S 
Swan Song S 
Swank Nostalgia S 
Trepanation S 
Triple Trouble S 
Ultimate, The S 
Vendetta S 


YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Louie Anderson, 2007
Season: All year
Page Views: 1,730
Submitted By: C Miller on Sep 28, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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top roping delirious (previous climber led balrog ...

Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>


This newer addition to the Roof Area has cleaned up nicely and offers continuous movement without any stopper moves making it a good choice for those breaking into the grade or running laps.

Climb a short flared corner to a ledge and then over a bulge on mostly good holds to another ledge. Stem and lieback your way up a flared corner to a crux sequence pulling another bulge. Once past the crux vertical face on large holds gains the anchors.


Right of center in the Roof Area midway between Balrog on the left and Epiphany on the right.


11 bolts, ring anchors

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By Tyler Quesnel
From: Eliot
Aug 3, 2011

Pretty fun, sustained and straight forward climbing. Crux is just a pump test so save your energy. Last bolt before the anchors I skipped, but there's probably a good clipping stance somewhere there.
By Jan Tarculas
From: Riverside, Ca
Dec 27, 2011
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

A pretty important right hand gaston(after a left hand crimp), which is also my favorite move in the entire climb, has broken off. I believe its after the 3rd or 4th bolt?
By Ian McG
Mar 16, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Yea, it was at the first bulge, at bolt 4? Now that this hold is missing, the move has become pretty height dependent. At 6'1", it doesn't seem to be much harder, but for shorter folks, this move probably bumps it up a grade.
By Phil Esra
Apr 22, 2013

Is the arete on route? If so, the missing hold isn't important at 5'6". (I found the upper bulge much harder, mostly due to pump.)
By Jan Tarculas
From: Riverside, Ca
Dec 3, 2015
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Added chains and fixe biner to the anchors on top yesterday. Enjoy

Broken hold still not there after 4th bolt or so, after the first buldge. Most people I see now go way right on the arête, make a few moves up then back left

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