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Delicious Demon 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: C. Luebben and company
Page Views: 808
Submitted By: Kevin Landolt on Apr 2, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Delicious Demon.

Description 

This route follows jugs and short horizontal rails to a short roof crux sequence. The rock is excellent as is the climbing.

Location 

This lies on Snake Eyes Wall - Eden Area. It is labelled as route #25 in the NC3 Poudre Canyon Guide.

Protection 

5 bolts.


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By Ben Scott
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 12, 2013

The scary old cold shut anchor has been replaced by NCCC as of June 2013.
3/8"x3" SS Fixe Triplex wedge bolts, 3/8" SS hangers, and 3/8" PS steel chain and links. Everything is camo'd and good to go.

Enjoy!

NCCC
nococlimbing.org
By Parke
Jul 29, 2014

Just a heads-up: the crux felt significantly more difficult than 11b to me (like in the 12 range). For comparison, I made pretty short work of the 4th bolt crux on Snake Eyes (12b) to the left. I was probably just pumped out from Snake Eyes and/or missed some obvious beta, but who knows? That said, if anyone very familiar with this route wants to tell me that some key hold has come off, my mojo would be very grateful.
By Jeff Flanegan
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 5, 2017
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Definitely not as hard as Snake Eyes which made me feel like I was in a rodeo, spitting me off after every bolt through the fifth, that's a tough bastard. Delicious Demon is straight up 11b with a tough sequence to pull the roof. Traverse left on some sidepulls/undercling with smeary feet, then pull the leftmost part of the roof.
By Dylan Demyanek
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 10, 2017
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Definitely no 5.12 moves on this. The climbing is consistantly in the 5.10 range until the roof which is the crux. I've seen the roof climbed at least 6 different ways depending on style and body size so do whatever works for you. All the stars for this one.

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