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Delerium Tremens is the alluring east arete. Begin on the sidepulls at head height. High step, lock off on the gaston and reach to an edge. Get established on the face and climb up crimps leading to the obvious pinch on the arete. Snag the lip with the aid of a crimp on the other wall. The topout is easy, thankfully. The crux is the first move and gets progressively easier the higher one climbs. Until 2003 or so there was a tooth on the initial gaston that make it easier but more painful.
Right arete when looking at the main steep face of the highball boulder.
Pads and a spotter (or two).
By Seth Derr
From: harrisburg, pa
Nov 12, 2013
on 11/11/13 the painful tooth on the high right hand start hold broke. Establishing on the climb, which i think was the crux before, is now significantly harder.
By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Jan 10, 2014
Seth, that tooth you refer to broke for the first time in the early 2000's leaving a much smaller feature. It used to be even bigger! It is unfortunate that there is nothing there anymore other than a flat gaston. And yes, establishing on the rock is definitely the crux. As Joel would say, hips in and highstep...