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Brasilians on Del Diedro.
This is one of the more popular climbs at Frey due to its proximity to the refugio, the difficulty, amazing summit, and quality climbing.
Face climb up and slightly to the left to a short crack that leads into the left facing dihedral that can barely be seen from the start of the climb. Follow this to the top. There is a bolted anchor about 5m below the needled summit and its about a 25m rap back to the ground.
The routes starts on the left end of the pedestal on the west face, just left of Socotroco.
Single set of cams plus a set of nuts should do the trick.
BETA PHOTO: The climber in blue is just getting into the dihed...
Jan 25, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Did this Dec 2013. Fantastic climb. BETA ALERT: The beginning is a little spicy: the climbing is not too hard, but there is little pro. I got a stopper in off the belay, then slung a nice flake. You have to pull into the dihedral before you get more gear, so without the slung flake, you are looking at a nasty deck fall. I recommend a nice thick nylon runner for slinging the flake. Once in the dihedral, it's a great route on quality stone.
By Emmett Lyman
From: Somerville, MA
Jan 11, 2017
Great, great climb. Second chipacles advice to protect the start with a slung flake. Especially if there's a party climbing Socotroco, as the two routes are very close and someone on Socotroco could potentially fall on your ropes or belayer. Found this climb to be easier than other Frey 5+ cruxes (P2 of Sifuentes-Weber) and less heady than others (P2 of Del Frente). Quite casual for the Frey grade with no distinctive crux.